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Estimating wave heights from pressure data at the bed

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  05 March 2014

A. Constantin
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Abstract

We provide some estimates for the wave height of a two-dimensional travelling gravity water wave from pressure measurements at the flat bed. The approach is applicable without limitations on the wave amplitude. It improves the classical estimates available if one relies on the hydrostatic approximation or on the linear theory of waves of small amplitude.

JFM classification

Waves/Free-surface Flows: Surface gravity waves Waves/Free-surface Flows: Waves/Free-surface Flows
Type
Rapids
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 743 , 25 March 2014 , R2
Copyright
© 2014 Cambridge University Press 

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