Let (Mn,Sn)n≥0 be a Markov random walk with positive recurrent driving chain (Mn)n≥0 on the countable state space 𝒮 with stationary distribution π. Suppose also that lim supn→∞Sn=∞ almost surely, so that the walk has almost-sure finite strictly ascending ladder epochs σn>. Recurrence properties of the ladder chain (Mσn>)n≥0 and a closely related excursion chain are studied. We give a necessary and sufficient condition for the recurrence of (Mσn>)n≥0 and further show that this chain is positive recurrent with stationary distribution π> and 𝔼π>σ1><∞ if and only if an associated Markov random walk (𝑀̂n,𝑆̂n)n≥0, obtained by time reversal and called the dual of (Mn,Sn)n≥0, is positive divergent, i.e. 𝑆̂n→∞ almost surely. Simple expressions for π> are also provided. Our arguments make use of coupling, Palm duality theory, and Wiener‒Hopf factorization for Markov random walks with discrete driving chain.