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This chapter deals with the tension between the need for producers to stay ahead of the competition whilst finding ways of cooperating. It begins with an account of the belated appropriation of the concept of terroir, which has been assisted by the flexibility of the Wine of Origin (WO) system. The chapter compares the very different approach to terroir in the Swartland, Stellenbosch and the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, and the quite distinct ways in which producers have sought to come together to market it. The discussion then turns to strategies to develop wine brands in a context where producers, whose farms are typically small, need to source grapes from further afield. Under the WO system, it is possible to play to the distinct terroir of where the farm is located, which is reflected in the branding, while creating second and third labels for wines made from grapes with a different origin. Hence the premium associated with quality is augmented by the volume that buying in grapes permits, thereby contributing to overall profitability. A brief discussion of black wine brands follows. The final section addresses a range of issues relating to competition and cooperation. There is a discussion of sensitivity to scoring within wine guides and wine competitions and how this influences marketing. A contrast is made between the collapse of the Cape Estate Wine Producers Association (CEWPA) and the success of cultivar-specific associations and the proliferation of wine routes.
The chapter begins with an analysis of the KWV, which mimicked the operations of the state bureaucracy but was formally distinct from it. An anatomy of the KWV regulatory system is provided In order to achieve a better sense of how the interlocking parts worked together. There is a detailed discussion of the documentation that producers were required to supply each year to comply with the quota system. This is followed by an account of minimum pricing and surplus disposal which involved the surrender of distilling wine to the KWV which it used to make brandy. There is also a discussion of the Wine of Origin (WO) system which introduced a system of appellations, and the efforts of the wine merchants to tempt aspiring independent producerrs with the offer of access to marketing channels. This leads to a discussion of the contention over the designation of ’estate wines’ and the rather more successful effort to launch the Stellenbosch Wine Route. Finally, an account is offered of KWV efforts to control access to planting material.
With the introduction of wine to the Cape Colony, it became associated locally with social extremes: with the material trappings of privilege and taste, on the one side, and the stark realities of human bondage, on the other. By examining the history of Cape wine, Paul Nugent offers a detailed history of how, in South Africa, race has shaped patterns of consumption. The book takes us through the Liquor Act of 1928, which restricted access along racial lines, intervention to address overproduction from the 1960s, and then latterly, in the wake of the fall of the Apartheid regime, deregulation in the 1990s and South Africa's re-entry into global markets. We see how the industry struggled to embrace Black Economic Empowerment, environmental diversity and the consumer market. This book is an essential read for those interested in the history of wine, and how it intersects with both South African and global history.
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