Skip to main content Accessibility help
×
Hostname: page-component-78c5997874-t5tsf Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-12T20:28:22.228Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Two - The Wool Zone in Prehistory and Protohistory

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 November 2019

Serena Sabatini
Affiliation:
Göteborgs Universitet, Sweden
Sophie Bergerbrant
Affiliation:
Göteborgs Universitet, Sweden
Get access

Summary

This chapter evaluates the advances in knowledge accumulated over the past ten years of research at the Centre for Textile Research in Copenhagen and identifies questions that still remain to be answered.

Type
Chapter
Information
The Textile Revolution in Bronze Age Europe
Production, Specialisation, Consumption
, pp. 15 - 38
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2019

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Alberti, M. E. (2005) I sistemi ponderali dell’Egeo nell’età del bronzo. Studi, storia, pratica e contatti, Annuario della scuola archeologica di Atene 81(serie III, 3, 2003/ii), 597640.Google Scholar
Alberti, M. E. (2007) Washing and dyeing installations of the ancient Mediterranean: towards a definition from Roman times back to Minoan Crete, in Ancient Textiles, Production, Craft and Society (Ancient Textiles Series 1), ed. Gillis, C. and Nosch, M.-L., Oxford, 5963.Google Scholar
Andersson Strand, E. and Cybulska, M. (2013) Visualising ancient textiles: how to make a textile visible on the basis of an interpretation of an Ur III text, in Textile Production and Consumption in the Ancient Near East: Archaeology, Epigraphy, Iconography (Ancient Textiles Series 12), ed. Nosch, M.-L., Koefoed, H. and Andersson Strand, E., Oxford, 113127.Google Scholar
Andersson Strand, E., Breniquet, C. and Michel, C. (2017) Current Research on Textile Imprints on Bullae at Kültepe, in Proceedings of the 2nd Kültepe International Meeting, Kültepe 26–30 July 2015 (Subartu XXXIX), ed. Kulakoglu, F. and Barjamovic, G., Turnhout, 87104.Google Scholar
Andersson Strand, E. and Mannering, U. (2014) An exceptional woman from Birka, in A Stitch in Time: Essays in Honour of Lise Bender Jørgensen (GOTARC Series A 4), ed. Bergerbrant, S. and Fossøy, S. H., Gothenburg, 301316.Google Scholar
Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L. eds. (2015) Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age (Ancient Textiles Series 21), Oxford.Google Scholar
Archi, A. (1987) Reflections on the system of weights from Ebla, Eblaitica: Essays on the Ebla Archives and Eblaite Language 1, 4789.Google Scholar
Barber, E. J. W. (1991) Prehistoric Textiles: the Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with Special Reference to the Aegean, Princeton.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1986) Forhistoriske Textiler i Skandinavien (Nordiske Fortidsminder Serie B 9), Copenhagen.Google Scholar
Bender Jørgensen, L. and Rast-Eicher, A. with contributions by S. K. Ehlers and S. H. Fossøy (2016) Innovations in European Bronze Age textiles, Praehistorische Zeitschrift 91(1), 68–102.Google Scholar
Bender Jørgensen, L., Sofaer, J. and Sørensen, M. L. S. eds. (2018) Creativity in the Bronze Age: Understanding Innovation in Pottery, Textile, and Metalwork Production, Cambridge.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Bergerbrant, S. (2007) Bronze Age Identities: Costume, Conflict and Contact in Northern Europe, 1600–1300 bc (Stockholm Studies in Archaeology 43), Lindome.Google Scholar
Breniquet, C. (2008) Essai sur le tissage en Mésopotamie: des premières communautés sédentaires au milieu du IIIe millénaire avant J-C (Travaux de la Maison René-Ginouvès 5), Paris.Google Scholar
Breniquet, C. and Michel, C. eds. (2014) Wool Economy in the Ancient Near East and the Aegean: From the Beginnings of Sheep Husbandry to Institutional Textile Industry (Ancient Textiles Series 17), Oxford.Google Scholar
Broudy, E. (1979) The Book of Looms: a History of the Handloom from Ancient Times to the Present, Hanover, NH.Google Scholar
Bruun Lundgren, M., Andersson Strand, E. and Hallager, B. P. (2015) Textile tools from Khania, in Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age (Ancient Textiles Series 21), ed. Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L., Oxford, 197206.Google Scholar
Burke, B. (1997) The organization of textile production on Bronze Age Crete, in TECHNE: Craftsmen, Craftswomen and Craftsmanship in the Aegean Bronze Age (Aegaeum 16), ed. Laffineur, R. and Betancourt, P. P., Liège and Austin, 413422.Google Scholar
Burke, B. (1999) Purple and Aegean textile trade in the early second millennium bc, in Meletemata: Studies in Aegean Archaeology Presented to Malcolm H. Wiener as He Enters his 65th Year (Aegaeum 20), ed. Betancourt, P. P., Karageorghis, V., Laffineur, R. and Niemeier, W. D., Liège and Austin, 7582.Google Scholar
Burke, B. (2010) From Minos to Midas: Ancient Cloth Production in the Aegean and in Anatolia (Ancient Textiles Series 7), Oxford.Google Scholar
Charvát, P. (2014) Lambs of the gods: the beginnings of the wool economy in Proto-Cuneiform texts, in Wool Economy in the Ancient Near East and the Aegean (Ancient Textiles Series 17), ed. Breniquet, C. and Michel, C., Oxford, 7993.Google Scholar
Cutler, J., Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L. (2013) Textile production in Quartier Mu, in Fouilles exécutées à Malia: le Quartier Mu V. Vie quotidienne et techniques au minoen Moyen II (Études crétoises 34), ed. Poursat, J.-C., Athens, 95118.Google Scholar
De Fidio, P. (1999) On the routes of Aegean Bronze Age wool and weights, Minos 33–34, 3963.Google Scholar
Del Freo, M., Nosch, M.-L. and Rougemont, F. (2010) The terminology of textiles in the Linear B tablets, including some considerations on Linear A logograms and abbreviations, in Textile Terminologies from the 3rd to the 1st Millennium bc in the Ancient Near East and the Eastern Mediterranean Area (Ancient Textiles Series 8), ed. Michel, C. and Nosch, M.-L., Oxford, 338373.Google Scholar
Elster, E., Andersson Strand, E., Nosch, M.-L. and Cutler, J. (2015) Textile tools from Sitagroi, northern Greece, in Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age (Ancient Textiles Series 21), ed. Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L., Oxford, 299308.Google Scholar
Firth, R. T. (2012) An interpretation of the specifications of textiles on Ln 1568, in Études mycéniennes 2010: Actes du XIIIe colloque international sur les textes égéens, Sèvres, Paris, Nanterre, 20–23 septembre 2010 (Biblioteca di ‘Pasiphae’. Collana di filologia e antichità egee 10), ed. Carlier, P., de Lamberterie, C., Egetmeyer, M., Guilleux, N., Rougemont, F. and Zurbach, J., Pisa and Rome, 227242.Google Scholar
Firth, R. T. (2015) Mathematical analysis of the spindle whorl and loom weight data in the CTR Database, in Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age (Ancient Textiles Series 21), ed. Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L., Oxford, 153195.Google Scholar
Firth, R. T. and Nosch, M.-L. (2012) Spinning and weaving wool in Ur III administrative texts, Journal of Cuneiform Studies 64, 6784.Google Scholar
Foster, B. (2014) Wool in the economy of Sargonic Mesopotamia, in Wool Economy in the Ancient Near East and the Aegean (Ancient Textile Series 17), ed. Breniquet, C. and Michel, C., Oxford, 115123.Google Scholar
Frangipane, M., Andersson Strand, E., Laurito, R., Möller-Wiering, S., Nosch, M.-L. B., Rast-Eicher, A. and Wisti Lassen, A. (2009) Arslantepe, Malatya (Turkey): textiles, tools and imprints of fabrics from the 4th to the 2nd millennium bce, Paléorient 35, 529.Google Scholar
Frei, K. M., Mannering, U., Kristiansen, K., Allentoft, M. E., Wilson, A. S., Skals, I., Tridico, S., Nosch, M.-L., Willerslev, E., Clarke, L. and Frei, R. (2015) Tracing the dynamic life story of a Bronze Age female, Scientific Reports 5, 10431.CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed
Gleba, M. and Mannering, U. eds. (2012) Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to ad 400 (Ancient Textiles Series 11), Oxford.Google Scholar
Grömer, K. (2006) Textilien der Bronzezeit in Mitteleuropa, Archäologia Austriaca 90, 3172.Google Scholar
Grömer, K. (2010) Prähistorische Textilkunst in Mitteleuropa, Geschichte des Handwerkes und Kleidung vor den Römern, Vienna.Google Scholar
Grömer, K., Kern, A., Reschreiter, H. and Rösel-Mautendorfer, H. (2013) Textiles from Hallstatt: Weaving Culture in Bronze Age Salt Mines/Textilien aus Hallstatt: Gewebte Kultur aus dem bronze- und eisenzeitlichen Salzbergwerk (Archaeolingua 29), Budapest.Google Scholar
Guzowska, M., Becks, R. and Andersson Strand, E. (2012) ‘She was weaving a great web’: textiles in Troia, in KOSMOS: Jewellery, Adornment and Textiles in the Aegean Bronze Age (Aegaeum 33), ed. Nosch, M.-L. and Laffineur, R., Liège, 107112.Google Scholar
Guzowska, M., Becks, R., Andersson Strand, E., Cutler, J. and Nosch, M.-L. (2015) Textile tools from Troia, western Anatolia, in Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age (Ancient Textiles Series 21), ed. Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L., Oxford, 309328.Google Scholar
Hald, M. (1980) Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials: a Comparative Study of Costume and Iron Age Textiles, Copenhagen.Google Scholar
Halstead, P. (1981) Counting sheep in Neolithic and Bronze Age Greece, in Pattern of the Past: Studies in Honour of David Clarke, ed. Hodder, I., Isaac, G. and Hammond, N., Cambridge, 307339.Google Scholar
Halstead, P. and Isaakidou, V. (2011) Revolutionary secondary products: the development and significance of milking, animal-traction and wool-gathering in later prehistoric Europe and the Near East, in Interweaving Worlds: Systemic Interactions in Eurasia, 7th to 1st Millennia bc, ed. Wilkinson, T., Sherratt, S. and Bennet, J., Oxford, 6176.Google Scholar
Hoffman, M. (1964) The Warp-Weighted Loom: Studies in the History and Technology of an Ancient Implement (Studia Norvegica 14), Oslo.Google Scholar
Iakovidis, S. (1977) On the use of Mycenaean ‘buttons’, The Annual of the British School at Athens 72, 113119.Google Scholar
Isaakidou, V. (2006) Ploughing with cows: Knossos and the ‘Secondary Products Revolution’, in Animals in the Neolithic, ed. Serjeantson, D. and Field, D., Oxford, 95112.Google Scholar
Kemp, B. and Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. (2001) The Ancient Textile Industry at Amarna, London.Google Scholar
Killen, J. T. (1984) The textile industries at Pylos and Knossos, in Pylos Comes Alive: Industry and Administration in a Mycenaean Palace, ed. Shelmerdine, C. W. and Palaima, T. G., New York, 4963.Google Scholar
Killen, J. T. (2015) Economy and Administration in Mycenaean Greece, vols. I–III (Incunabula Graeca 104), Rome.Google Scholar
McCorriston, J. (1997) The fiber revolution: textile extensification, alienation and social stratification in ancient Mesopotamia, Current Anthropology 38 (4), 517549.Google Scholar
Mannering, U., Gleba, M. and Bloch Hansen, M. (2012) Denmark, in Textiles and Textile Production in Europe: From Prehistory to ad 400 (Ancient Textiles Series 11), ed. Gleba, M. and Mannering, U., Oxford, 91115.Google Scholar
Michailidou, A. (2008) Weight and Value in Pre-Coinage Societies, Volume ii: Sidelights on Measurement from the Aegean and the Orient (Melethemata 61), Athens.Google Scholar
Michel, C. (2001) Correspondance des marchands de Kaniš au début du IIe millénaire av. J.-C., Paris.Google Scholar
Michel, C. and Nosch, M.-L., eds. (2010) Textile Terminologies in the Ancient Near East and Mediterranean from the Third to the First Millennia bc (Ancient Textiles Series 8), Oxford.Google Scholar
Militello, P. (2007) Textile industry and Minoan palaces, in Ancient Textiles, Production, Craft and Society (Ancient Textiles Series 1), ed. Gillis, C. and Nosch, M.-L., Oxford, 3645.Google Scholar
Militello, P. (2014) Wool economy in Minoan Crete before Linear B: a minimalist position, in Wool Economy in the Ancient Near East and the Aegean: From the Beginnings of Sheep Husbandry to Institutional Textile Industry (Ancient Textiles Series 17), ed. Breniquet, C. and Michel, C., Oxford, 264282.Google Scholar
Möller-Wiering, S. (2015) External examination of spinning and weaving samples, in Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age (Ancient Textiles Series 21), ed. Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L., Oxford, 101118.Google Scholar
Nosch, M.-L. (2012) The textile logograms in the Linear B Tablets: les idéogrammes archéologiques – des textiles, in Études mycéniennes 2010: Actes du XIIIe colloque international sur les textes égéens, Sèvres, Paris, Nanterre, 20–23 septembre 2010 (Biblioteca di ‘Pasiphae’; Collana di filologia e antichità egee 10), ed. Carlier, P., de Lamberterie, C., Egetmeyer, M., Guilleux, N., Rougemont, F. and Zurbach, J., Pisa and Rome, 305346.Google Scholar
Nosch, M.-L. (2014) The wool economy in Greece in the end of the II millennium bce, in Wool Economy in the Ancient Near East and the Aegean: From the Beginnings of Sheep Husbandry to Institutional Textile Industry (Ancient Textiles Series 17), ed. Breniquet, C. and Michel, C., Oxford, 366395.Google Scholar
Nosch, M.-L. (2015) The Wool Age: textile traditions and textile innovations, in Tradition and Innovation in the Mycenaean Palatial Polities, ed. Ruppenstein, F. and Weilhartner, J., Vienna, 67201.Google Scholar
Olofsson, L., Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L. (2015) Experimental testing of Bronze Age textile tools, in Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age (Ancient Textiles Series 21), ed. Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L., Oxford, 76100.Google Scholar
Parise, N. (1986) Pesi egei per la lana, La Parola del Passato 227, 8188.Google Scholar
Payne, S. (1975) Faunal change at Franchthi cave from 20,000 bc to 3,000 bc, in Archaeozoological Studies: Papers of the Archaeozoological Conference 1974, held at the Biologisch-Archaeologisch Instituut of the State University of Groningen, ed. Clason, A.-T., Amsterdam, 120131.Google Scholar
Petruso, K. M. (1986) Wool evaluation at Knossos and Nuzi, Kadmos 25 (1), 2637.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Peyronel, L. (2011) Mašqaltum kittum. Questioni di equilibrio: bilance e sistemi di pesatura nell’Oriente antico, in Studi italiani di metrologia ed economia del Vicino Oriente Antico dedicati a Nicola Parise in occasione del Suo settantesimo compleanno (Studia Asiana 7), ed. Ascalone, E. and Peyronel, L., Rome, 105161.Google Scholar
Peyronel, L. (2014) From weighing wool to weaving tools: textile manufacture at Ebla during the early Syrian period in the light of archaeological evidence, in Wool Economy in the Ancient Near East and the Aegean: From the Beginnings of Sheep Husbandry to Institutional Textile Industry (Ancient Textiles Series 17), ed. Breniquet, C. and Michel, C., Oxford, 124138.Google Scholar
Poursat, J.-C., Rougemont, F., Andersson Strand, E., Nosch, M.-L. and Cutler, J. (2015) Textile tools from Quartier Mu, Malia, Crete, Greece, in Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Investigating Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age (Ancient Textiles Series 21), ed. Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L., Oxford, 229241.Google Scholar
Rahmstorf, L. (2003) The identification of early Helladic weights and their wider implications, in METRON: Measuring the Aegean Bronze Age (Aegaeum 24), ed. Polinger, K. and Laffineur, R., Liège, 293299.Google Scholar
Rast-Eicher, A. and Bender Jørgensen, L. (2013) Sheep wool in Bronze Age and Iron Age Europe, Journal of Archaeological Science 40, 12241241.Google Scholar
Riello, G. (2014) The world of textiles in three spheres: European woollens, Indian cottons and Chinese silks, 1300–1700, in Global Textile Encounters (Ancient Textiles Series 20), ed. Nosch, M.-L., Zhao, F. and Varadarajan, L., Oxford, 93106.Google Scholar
Ryder, M. (1983) Sheep and Man, London.Google Scholar
Sallaberger, W. (2014) The value of wool in Early Bronze Age Mesopotamia: on the control of sheep and the handling of wool in the Presargonic to the Ur III periods (c. 2400 to 2000 bc), in Wool Economy in the Ancient Near East and the Aegean: From the Beginnings of Sheep Husbandry to Institutional Textile Industry (Ancient Textiles Series 17), ed. Breniquet, C. and Michel, C., Oxford, 94114.Google Scholar
Sarri, K. (2018) Αισθητική και ενδυμασία στη Νεολιθική εποχή (Aisthitikí kai endymasía sti Neolithikí epochí), in Οι αμέτρητες όψεις του ωραίου στην αρχαία τέχνη/The Countless Aspects of Beauty in Ancient Art, ed. Lagogianni-Georgakarakos, M., Athens, 163174.Google Scholar
Shamir, O. (2014) Textiles, basketry, and other artifacts of the Chalcolithic period in the southern Levant, in Masters of Fire: Copper Age Art from Israel, ed. Sebbane, M., Misch-Brandl, O. and Master, D. M., Princeton, 138152.Google Scholar
Shaw, M. and Chapin, A., eds. (2015) Woven Threads: Patterned Textiles of the Aegean Bronze Age (Ancient Textiles Series 22), Oxford.Google Scholar
Siennicka, M. (2012) Textile production in Early Helladic Tiryns, in KOSMOS: Jewellery, Adornment and Textiles in the Aegean Bronze Age (Aegaeum 33), ed. Nosch, M.-L. and Laffineur, R., Liège, 6575.Google Scholar
Skals, I. and Mannering, U. (2014) Investigating wool fibres from Danish prehistoric textiles, Archaeological Textiles Review 56, 2434.Google Scholar
Skals, I., Möller-Wiering, S. and Nosch, M.-L. (2015) Survey of archaeological textile remains from the Aegean and eastern Mediterranean area, in Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age (Ancient Textiles Series 21), ed. Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L., Oxford, 6174 and appendix A and B.Google Scholar
Tzachili, I. (1997) Υφαντικη και οι υφάντρες στο προϊστορικό Αιγαίο (Yphantiki kai hyphántes sto proistorikó Aigaío), Heraklion.Google Scholar
Veenhof, K. (1972) Aspects of Old Assyrian Trade and its Terminology (Studia et documenta ad iura orientis antiqui pertinentia 10), Leiden.Google Scholar
Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. (1993) Pharaonic Egyptian Clothing, Leiden.Google Scholar
Younger, J. (2005) Cretan hieroglyphic wool units (LANA, double mina), in Studi in onore di Enrica Fiandra: contributi di archeologia egea e vicinorientale (Studi egei e vicinorientali 1), ed. M. Perna, 405409.Google Scholar
Zaccagnini, C. (1984) The terminology of weight measures for wool at Ebla, in Studies on the Language of Ebla, ed. Fronzaroli, P., Florence, 189204.Google Scholar
Zaccagnini, C. (1990) The Nuzi wool measures once again, Orientalia 59, 312319.Google Scholar

Save book to Kindle

To save this book to your Kindle, first ensure coreplatform@cambridge.org is added to your Approved Personal Document E-mail List under your Personal Document Settings on the Manage Your Content and Devices page of your Amazon account. Then enter the ‘name’ part of your Kindle email address below. Find out more about saving to your Kindle.

Note you can select to save to either the @free.kindle.com or @kindle.com variations. ‘@free.kindle.com’ emails are free but can only be saved to your device when it is connected to wi-fi. ‘@kindle.com’ emails can be delivered even when you are not connected to wi-fi, but note that service fees apply.

Find out more about the Kindle Personal Document Service.

Available formats
×

Save book to Dropbox

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Dropbox.

Available formats
×

Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

Available formats
×