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4 results

  • 4 - Re-perfuming China

  • from Part Two - Smellscapes in Flux
  • Xuelei Huang, University of Edinburgh
  • Book:
    Scents of China
    Published online:
    20 July 2023
    Print publication:
    10 August 2023, pp 143-186

  • Summary

    Alongside the grand scheme of deodorization, the arrival of a variety of mass-manufactured scents instigated an olfactory revolution in everyday life, feeding new sensory data into Chinese bodies and neurons. Drawing on trade statistics, advertisements, and corporate archives, Chapter 4 restores the materiality of the changing smellscape, exploring both imported scents and domestically produced perfumes, with special attention to state-of-the-art synthetic scents that invaded and contaminated the sensorium. Equipped with industrialism, capitalism, consumerism, science, and nationalism, this revolution’s key battlefield was none other than the human body. The regulation and management of its odours were intended to transform the body into a consumer object. The thrust of my inquiry is the question of how the united forces of olfactory modernity tuned neurons to accept new scents, and how the body was re-educated to internalize a new set of codes, values, and aesthetics.

  • 1 - Aromas of the Red Chamber

  • from Part One - A Sniff of China
  • Xuelei Huang, University of Edinburgh
  • Book:
    Scents of China
    Published online:
    20 July 2023
    Print publication:
    10 August 2023, pp 31-62

  • Summary

    The canonical eighteenth-century novel Hongloumeng (Dream of the Red Chamber) archives the intangible heritage of perfume culture in late imperial China. Chapter 1 explores the material culture of perfume and the spiritual, philosophical, and social subtexts of smell through a close reading of the novel. I argue that the author Cao Xueqin’s engagement with the sense of smell is twofold. On the one hand, he illustrates how culture tunes neurons cognitively and aesthetically: smell acts as an embodied form of knowledge to conceptualize time, space, gender, class, sexuality, and morality; aromas also elevate the everyday into an aesthetic way of living. On the other hand, he indicates the fragility of this painstakingly choreographed order of things. Overall he weaves an allegory about contamination as an inevitable human condition through smell. Unwittingly he forecasts the onset of a modern olfactory revolution premised on the arguable impurity of China.

  • Collection, characterization and olfactory evaluation of Pandanus species in Southern India

  • Rahul L. Zanan, Altafhusain B. Nadaf
  • Journal:
    Plant Genetic Resources / Volume 11 / Issue 1 / April 2013
    Published online by Cambridge University Press:
    01 June 2011, pp. 84-86

  • A detailed survey along the coastal regions of Southern India revealed the occurrence of seven Pandanus species, viz. P. kaida Kurz., P. odorifer (Forssk.) Kuntz., P. canaranus Warb., P. furcatus Roxb., P. thwaitesii Mart., P. foetidus Roxb and a new species P. palakkadensis Nadaf, Zanan & Wakte. The fragrance of staminate inflorescences of these species was compared with the fragrance of commercial staminate inflorescences of P. odorifer. P. thwaitesii,P. kaida and P. palakkadensis recorded comparable fragrance with that of P. odorifer. The study reveals the fragrance potential of these species, which could be exploited commercially for extraction of essential oil.

  • Effects of fragrance on female sexual arousal and mood across the menstrual cycle

  • CYNTHIA A. GRAHAM, ERICK JANSSEN, STEPHANIE A. SANDERS
  • Journal:
    Psychophysiology / Volume 37 / Issue 1 / January 2000
    Published online by Cambridge University Press:
    01 January 2000, pp. 76-84
    Print publication:
    January 2000

  • The effects of fragrance on sexual response in women were investigated using subjective and physiological measures of sexual arousal and of mood. Responses were obtained from female participants in three different fragrance conditions (female fragrance, male fragrance, and a “blank” or neutral substance), as they viewed erotic and sexually neutral films, and fantasized about sexual situations. Each woman was tested twice: during the midfollicular and periovulatory phases of her menstrual cycle. Menstrual cycle phase effects were apparent; self-report data indicated greater sexual arousal and more positive mood during the periovulatory than during the follicular phase. Results demonstrated a positive effect of the male fragrance on genital arousal during erotic fantasy, but this finding was apparent only during the follicular phase testing session. This effect did not appear to be mediated by any effects of fragrance on mood.