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The culture of clothing: On the history of the Fashion Image Collection – Lipperheide Costume Library in Berlin

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  02 June 2017

Adelheid Rasche
Adelheid Rasche*
Affiliation:
Curator of Textiles, Dress and Jewelry Email: a.rasche@gnm.de
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Abstract

In the last third of the 19th century, Berlin was the undisputed capital of the German clothing and fashion industry on an international scale. Several publishing houses specialized in the production of fashion magazines for different target groups. One of the success stories in this context is that of the publisher Franz Lipperheide and his wife Frieda. In 1865, they founded their own company, publishing the journal Die Modenwelt: Illustrirte Zeitung für Toilette und Handarbeiten. This journal quickly became the most-read fashion journal in Berlin. By the company's 25th anniversary in 1890, a total of 12 international editions of the journal was published with around 500,000 subscribers. The economic success of their company allowed the Lipperheides to create extensive private collections that reflected their deep interest in cultural-historical topics as well as textile art.

This paper focuses on their collection of source material for costume studies, which is now known as the ‘Sammlung Modebild—Lipperheidesche Kostümbibliothek’ (Fashion Image Collection—Lipperheide Costume Library), a department of the Kunstbibliothek at the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. The paper presents its history, some collection highlights and the various means of access (catalogues, exhibition catalogues and online access).

Type
Research Article
Information
Art Libraries Journal , Volume 42 , Special Issue 3: Fashion Collections , July 2017 , pp. 162 - 168
Copyright
Copyright © ARLIS/UK&Ireland 2017 

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References

1. In 1892, the couple was granted the title of Prussian nobility and the hereditary title of baron. This text does not employ these titles.

2. For further reading on the 25th anniversary of the magazine's founding, see Festschrift zum 25jährigen Bestehen der Modenwelt 1865–1890 (Berlin: Modenwelt, 1890)Google Scholar.

3. See “… zu fleißigem Nacharbeiten anzuregen’: Muster- und Lehrbücher im Verlag Lipperheide”, in Rasche, A., Frieda Lipperheide, 1840–1896. Ein Leben für Textilkunst und Mode im 19. Jahrhundert (Berlin: Kunstbibliothek Staatliche Museen zu Berlin Preußischer Kulturbesitz, 1999), 22–48 Google Scholar.

4. In 1899, the original name Sammlung für Kostümwissenschaft was changed to Freiherrlich von Lipperheide'sche Kostümbibliothek; after 1945, it was named Lipperheidesche Kostümbibliothek and in 2007, the name was changed to Sammlung Modebild – Lipperheidesche Kostümbibliothek. In this text, Lipperheidesche Kostümbibliothek has been used consistently.

5. Rasche, Frieda Lipperheide, 1840–1896, 49–65.

6. New printing of the deed of donation, dated 19 March 1892, in Adelheid Rasche, ed., Die Kultur der Kleider: Zum hundertjährigen Bestehen der Lipperheideschen Kostümbibliothek (Berlin: Kunstbibliothek Staatliche Museen zu Berlin Preußischer Kulturbesitz, 1999), 126f.

7. An overview of all collection and exhibition catalogues is provided in A. Rasche, ed., Die Kultur der Kleider, 132–35.

8. From Einleitung to Katalog der Freiherrlich von Lipperheide'schen Kostümbibliothek (Berlin: F. Lipperheide, 1896–1901), II.

9. Ibid., IV.

10. Between 2013 and 2016, within the framework of a basis project on the preparation of collections (Exzellenz-Cluster der Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin), it became possible, for the first time, to view the collection.

11. Nienholdt, E. and Wagner-Neumann, G., Katalog der Lipperheideschen Kostümbibliothek, revised edition (Berlin: Mann, 1965), vol. 1, 1–10 Google Scholar.

12. Lipperheide called this group “Trachtenkunde” (costume science). The changed terminology (costume, clothing, fashion) cannot be discussed in detail here.

13. Partly published in Kühn, C., ed., Zartrosa und Lichtblau: Japanische Fotografie der Meiji-Zeit (Bielefeld: Kerber, 2015)Google Scholar.

14. Partly published in Rasche, A., XTC Tanzfotografie der Zwanziger Jahre aus der Kunstbibliothek, Lipperheidesche Kostümbibliothek (Berlin: Kunstbibliothek Staatliche Museen zu Berlin Preußischer Kulturbesitz, 1996)Google Scholar.

15. Katalog der Freiherrlich von Lipperheide'schen Kostümbibliothek (Berlin, 1901)Google Scholar .

16. Nienholdt and Gretel Wagner-Neumann, Katalog der Lipperheideschen Kostümbibliothek, 1–10.

17. See Online-Katalog der Staatlichen Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz https://opac.smb.spk-berlin.de/; the older holdings will be added successively.

18. See note 7.

19. See Staatliche Museen zu Berlin www.smb-digital.de and European Fashion www.europeanafashion.eu