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II—The New Argentina
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 24 September 2024
As you approach Buenos Aires, sailing slowly through the dredged channel of the vast brown River Plate, you are aware of a skyline that is exceedingly strange. It is not just the fact of the towering skyscrapers. This is America, and north and south alike seem committed to this monolithic invasion of the sky. What is extraordinary is that you can see through so many of these blocks of stone: the blue that fills the window-spaces is innocent air. It is bomb-damage in reverse, or even, you may think, in anticipation. Later you will be reassured. Here, it appears, building goes on as long as the money lasts, and work can be suspended for years at a time. (In a suburb one saw a completed ferro-concrete steeple, improbably balanced on the bare skeleton of a church yet to be built.)
Building is a South American disease, or, more accurately, it is the symptom of a disease. In Argentina, as in Brazil, the fantastic growth of the cities has gravely disturbed the national equilibrium. Buenos Aires, the largest city in the southern hemisphere, has a population of four million, and including the province of the same name, accounts for half the total for the whole republic. Even though Argentina were far more developed industrially than she is (and the facts of nature have determined the primary role of the country as one of the greatest food-producing areas of the world), so disproportionate a head for such a body induces a sort of vertigo whose effects are immediately seen.
It need hardly be said that any opinions expressed in this article are entirely those of the author, and are in no sense to be attributed to the many friends who made it possible for him to learn so much of Argentina in so short a time.
2 And it is a little disconcerting for a Dominican (at least for one who belongs to the English Province of the Order) to find that one of the treasures of the splendid baroque church of San Domingo is a collection of captured English flags, framed in marble and enthusiastically displayed. They date from the unsuccessful British attempts at capturing Buenos Aires made by Beresford in 1806 and by Whitelocke in 1808, and the colonists' victory undoubtedly strengthened their confidence, triumphantly asserted later in the war of independence from Spain.
3 A children's primer tells us of a child's postcard ‘to Evita’, asking for a bicycle. A picture shows the little girl's delight as her mother shows her the bicycle that has mysteriously been delivered at the door.