Hostname: page-component-78c5997874-lj6df Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-15T07:41:59.228Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
  • English
  • Français

Fashion, Sumptuary Laws, and Business

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  24 July 2012

Herman Freudenberger
Herman Freudenberger
Affiliation:
Associate Professor of Economics, Tulane University
Get access Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Abstract

A remarkable instance of the interaction of business, society, and government unfolds in this study of the origins and effects of seventeenth-and eighteenth-century restrictions on luxury.

Type
Articles
Information
Business History Review , Volume 37 , Issue 1-2: Special Illustrated Fashion Issue , Spring/Summer 1963 , pp. 37 - 48
Copyright
Copyright © The President and Fellows of Harvard College 1963

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

1 Hooper, Wilfrid, “The Tudor Sumptuary Laws,” English Historical Review, vol. XXX (July, 1915), pp. 448–49.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

2 Baldwin, Frances E., Sumptuary Legislation and Personal Regulation in England (Baltimore, 1926), pp. 46–47.Google Scholar

3 Vincent, John M., Costume and Conduct in the Laws of Basel, Bern, and Zurich, 1370–1800 (Baltimore, 1935), p. 42.Google Scholar

4 I am indebted to Dr. Florence Edler de Roover for this information.

5 Gentleman's Magazine, vol. VIII (April, 1738), p. 191.

6 Sombart, Werner, Luxus und Kapitalismus (München & Leipzig, 1922), pp. 203–205.Google Scholar

7 Boehn, Max von, Die Mode: Menschen und Moden im Mittelalter (München, 1925), pp. 203–204.Google Scholar

8 Ibid., p. 174.

9 Boehn, Max von, Die Mode: Menschen und Moden im siebzehnten Jahrhundert (München, 1913), p. 139.Google Scholar

10 Boehn, Mittelalter, p. 201.

11 Veblen, Thorstein, The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions (New York, 1912), p. 126.Google Scholar

12 Sombart, Luxus, pp. 68–69.

13 Boehn, Max von, Die Mode: Menschen und Moden im sechzehnten Jahrhundert (München, 1923), p. 149.Google Scholar

14 Boehn, Max von, Die Mode: Menschen und Moden im achtzehnten Jahrhundert (München, 1923), p. 208.Google Scholar

15 Schumpeter, Joseph A., History of Economic Analysis (New York, 1954), p. 324 n.Google Scholar This appears to have been the purpose of a French ordinance of 1633 which attempted to control dress to prevent the ruination of the courtiers. Beaulieu, Michèle, Contribution à l'Étude de la Mode à Paris: Les Transformations du Costume Elégant sous le Règne de Louis XIII (1610–1643) (Paris, 1936), p. 81.Google Scholar

16 Boehn, Mittelalter, pp. 241–42.

17 Gentleman's Magazine, vol. IX (January, 1739), p. 28.

18 Foley, Caroline A., “Fashion,” Economic Journal, vol. III (Sept., 1893), p. 465.Google Scholar

19 Sombart, Luxus, pp. 68–69; Vincent, Costume, p. 49.

20 Boehn, Sechzehntes Jahrhundert, p. 174.

21 Baudrillart, Henri J. L., Histoire du Luxe Privé et Public (Paris, 1880–1881), vol. IV, pp. 11–23.Google Scholar

22 Boehn, Achtzehntes Jahrhundert, p. 128. The practice of having two such puppets began in the first half of the century — one large and one small. Beaulieu, Contribution, P. 11.

23 Langlade, Emile, La Marchande de Modes de Marie Antoinette: Rose Berlin (Paris, n.d.), pp. 56–57.Google Scholar There is an English edition of this book, Rose Berlin: The Creator of Fashion at the Court of Marie Antoinette, adapted from the French by Angelo S. Rappoport (London, 1913).

24 Platière, Roland de la, Encyclopédie Methodique, Manufactures, Arts, et Métiers (Paris, 1785), p. 133.Google Scholar

25 Robinson, Dwight E., “Fashion Theory and Product Design,” Harvard Business Review, vol. XXXVI (Nov.-Dec, 1958), p. 128.Google Scholar

26 Boehn, Achtzehntes Jahrhundert, p. 238. See also Blum, André, Histoire du Costume: Les Modes au XVIIe et au XVIIIe Siècles (Paris, 1928), pp. 74–75.Google Scholar

27 Heckscher, Eli F., Mercantilism, trans, by Shapiro, Mendel (2 vols., London, 1935), vol. I, pp. 172–73.Google Scholar

28 Vincent, John M., “Sumptuary Legislation,” Encyclopedia of the Social Sciences (New York, 1948), vol. XIV, p. 466.Google Scholar

29 Coats, A. W., “Changing Attitudes to Labour in the Mid-Eighteenth Century,” Economic History Review, Second Series, vol. XI (Aug., 1958), pp. 35–51.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

30 Spengler, Joseph J., “Mercantilist and Physiocratic Growth Theory,” in Hoselitz, Bert F. (ed.), Theories of Economic Growth (Glencoe, 1960), pp. 19–20.Google Scholar See also Johnson, E. A. J., “Unemployment and Consumption: The Mercantilist View,” Quarterly Journal of Economics, vol. XLVI (Aug., 1932), pp. 698–719.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

31 Gilboy, Elizabeth W., “Demand as a Factor in the Industrial Revolution,” Facts and Factors in Economic History (Cambridge, Mass., 1932), pp. 628–29.Google Scholar

32 Hume, David, Writings on Economics, ed. by Rotwein, Eugene (Madison, 1955), pp. 11, 28.Google Scholar Also, Bergius, Johann Heinrich Ludwig (ed.), Policey-und Cameral Magazin (Frankfurt a/M, 1773), vol. VII, pp. 180–205.Google Scholar

33 Mandeville, Bernard, The Fable of the Bees; or, Private Vices, Public Benefits (Edinburgh, 1777), vol. I, pp. vii, 13.Google Scholar

34 Landauer, Carl, Die Theorien der Merkantilisten und der Physiokraten fiber die oekonomische Bedeutung des Luxus (München, 1915), pp. 50, 104–106.Google Scholar

35 Marperger, Johann Jacob, Das Neu-eröffnete Manufakturwarenhauss (Hamburg, 1704), pp. 13–15.Google Scholar

36 Ibid., p. 13.

37 Beer, Adolf, “Zwei Handschreiben von Maria Theresia iiber den Luxus,” Zeitschrift für Sozial und Wirtschaftsgeschichte, vol. I (1893), pp. 341–48.Google Scholar

38 Hofkammerarchiv (Vienna), Boehm. Commerz, fasc. 100, red no. 890, f. 28ff.

39 Ephemeriden der Menschheit, vol. XVIII (Sept., 1782), pp. 365–67.

40 Ibid., vol. IV (Jan., 1778), pp. 87–90.

41 Ibid., vol. III (Feb., 1777), pp. 158–75.

42 Ibid., p. 170.

43 Ephemerides du Citoyens (1767), part I, pp. 223ff.

44 Ephemeriden der Menschheit, vol. IX (May, 1781), p. 528.

45 Barkhausen, Ernst, Die Tuchindustrie in Montjoie, thr Aufstieg und Niedergang (Aachen, 1925), p. 34.Google Scholar

46 Hofkammerarchiv (Vienna), Boehm. Commerz, fasc. 101/1, red no. 891, 14. April, 1761.

47 Langlade, Marchande, pp. 56–57. Marie-Jeanne (Rose) Bertin was apprenticed to a marchande de mode in Abbeville named Barbier who wanted to set up business in Paris with Rose. When Barbier's husband refused to go along, Rose went by herself in 1770 and Barbier joined her later after the latter's husband died. Barbier married M. Tetard, negotiant au drap et fournisseur de la Reine, in Paris, and the Tetards gave Bertin credits and supported her financially in other ways. Nouvion, Pierre de and Liez, Emile, Un Ministre des Modes sous Louis XVI: Mademoiselle Bertin (Paris, 1911), pp. 22–28.Google Scholar

48 Platière, Encyclopédie, p. 135.