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Marketing for Socialism: Soviet Cosmetics in the 1930s

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  28 October 2013

Abstract

This article examines the marketing practices of the Soviet state trust for cosmetics, TeZhe, in the 1930s. Drawing on company records, industry reports, and popular press, we show that TeZhe used an array of marketing tactics, which were similar to those of the Western manufacturers. However, TeZhe's marketing was aligned with the state's economic and sociocultural initiatives and shaped by the ideological dictates of the Soviet system.

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Articles
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Copyright © The President and Fellows of Harvard College 2013 

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References

1 The original reads: Na gubakh TeZhe, na shchekakh TeZhe, na broviakh TeZhe, tselovat' gde zhe?

2 There were three trusts: TeZhe, Lenzhet (Leningrand) and Kharzhet (Kharkov). Markuze, M., “Parfiumerno-kosmeticheskoe proizvodstvo SSSR,” Masloboino Zhirovoe Delo ([Butter Beating Fat Work] hereafter MZhD) 12 (1936): 597–99Google Scholar; Sovetskaia parfiumerno-kosmeticheskaia promyshlennost',” MZhD 11 (1957): 1217Google Scholar. TeZhe dominated the category with over 75 percent for fine soaps, more than 76 percent for perfumery, and 91 percent for cosmetics in 1927. Otchet o deiatel'nosti tresta TeZhe za 1928–29 (Moscow, 1929), 6Google Scholar; Zhitomirsky, V., “Voprosy ratzional'noĭ togrovli,” Sovetskaia Torgolia [Soviet Trade] 31 (1927): 28Google Scholar; Zhemchuzhina, Polina, “Zadachi parfiumerno-kosmeticheskoĭ promyshlennosti TeZhe,” MZhD 6 (1934): 8Google Scholar.

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32 In the 1930s, several consumer-goods trusts partook in Soviet civilizing efforts. Moscow Miasokombinat (meat-products trust) promoted modern canned and readymade meat products. Confectionary enterprises such as Krasnyi Oktiabr' and Rot Front advertised the bounties of the Soviet life. Gronow, Caviar with Champagne; Snopkov, Aleksandr, ed., Advertising Art in Russia (Moscow, 2007)Google Scholar.

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36 Polina Zhemchuzhina was first accused of spying against the Soviet state in 1939. After the Politburo heard her case, the allegations against her were deemed slanderous. However, in 1948, facing similar accusations, she was imprisoned. The treason accusation seemed to stem from her support of the Jewish Anti-Fascist Committee during World War II and her friendship with Golda Meir, the first Israeli ambassador to the USSR after the establishment of the state of Israel in 1948 (Vasil'eva, Kremlin Wives; Kun, Stalin).

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38 Given that there was an overall political support for the consumer goods, which was withdrawn as the threat of war approached, Zhemchuzhina's specific contribution to the rise of TeZhe is difficult to ascertain. However, TeZhe's public relations materials convincingly show that Zhemchuzhina championed TeZhe's development.

39 Kun, Stalin.

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44 For a discussion of letters as a medium between rulers and the public, see Sokolov, Andrei, Golos Naroda (Moscow, 1998)Google Scholar.

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46 Zhemchuzhina first referred to the letter as “a socialist order” in TeZhe's 1933 report (Zhemchuzhina, , “Vypolnim sotsialisticheskiĭ zakaz,” 12Google Scholar); at the 1934 Conference, the functionaries appeared to ratify such framing. Slet Udarnikov TeZhe,” MZhD 1 (1935): 5053Google Scholar.

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58 Gurova, “Ideology of Consumption.” The beauty industry faced a similar legitimization challenge in the West, albeit for different reasons; see Jones, Beauty Imagined.

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62 In the 1920s, Auguste Michel, the French specialist, worked in Novaia Zaria and trained Soviet perfumers there; his fate after the 1930s is unknown. Vasil'eva, , 100 let Parfiumernoĭ fabrike, 2023Google Scholar.

63 Kiaer, , Imagine No Possessions, 143–96Google Scholar; Snopkov, , ed. Advertising Art in Russia, 5 and 145Google Scholar.

64 “Eva Stricker Zeisel—Life Chronology” at www.evazeisel.org.

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66 “Slet Udarnikov TeZhe.”

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68 Otchet o deiatel'nosti tresta TeZhe za 1928–29.

69 “Slet Udarnikov TeZhe,” 51; Vaĭnshteĭn, , “Parfiumerno-kosmeticheskaia Promyshlennost',” 29Google Scholar. The Soviet emphasis on design contrasts with that of Western companies. For example, Coty's packaging sought to preserve an aura of prestige while democratizing perfume consumption; Jones, , Beauty Imagined, 2933Google Scholar.

70 Zhemchuzina, “Dadim Strane Bol'she Myla i Parfiumerii.”

71 Pilditch, James, The Silent Salesman: How to Develop Packaging that Sells (London, 1961)Google Scholar.

72 Zemenkov, Grafika v bytu; on the socialist objects' ideological mission, see Kiaer, Imagine No Possessions.

73 Sivulka, , Stronger than Dirt, 98106Google Scholar; the phrase “brightening the dark corners of the earth” appeared in a Pear's Soap ad from 1899 and drew from Rudyard Kipling's poem “The White Man's Burden”; also Jones, , Beauty Imagined, 7193Google Scholar.

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77 Gregory and Harrison, “Allocation under Dictatorship.”

78 Otchet o Deiatelnosti Ttresta TeZhe za 1928–29, 27; Dubnov, “Obrazets Bol'shevitskoĭ Bor'by”; “Slet Udarnikov TeZhe,” 50–51.

79 Barulina, “Novaia Zaria.”

80 Jones, Beauty Imagined.

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82 Such price segmentation originated in the postwar “pact” with the Soviet labor aristocracy that gave them access to a middle-class lifestyle in exchange for production effort and political loyalty; Dunham, Vera, In Stalin's Time: Middleclass Values in Soviet Fiction (Durham, N.C., 1990)Google Scholar; Osokina, Our Daily Bread.

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95 This contrasted with the American practice, where “mention[ing] factory life” was regarded as deleterious to sales because products shown in a factory conjured up an “unhappy familiarity”; Ewen, , Captains of Consciousness, 80Google Scholar.

96 Tsitron, “Bor'ba za Poterbitelia.”

97 Cherkasheninov, “Dekorativno-khudozhesvtennie Raboty v Sovetskoĭ Togrovle.”

98 Iurina, “Kul'tura i Krasota”; Vaĭnshteĭn, “Parfiumerno-kosmeticheskaia promyshlennost.”

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102 Zdorovaia Kozha,” Ogonek 10 (1937): 1415Google Scholar.

103 Zhemchuzhina, “Blizhaĭshie Zadachi Parfiumernoĭ Promyshlennosti”; on mail order see Emmet, Boris and Jeuck, John E., Catalogues and Counters: A History of Sears, Roebuck and Company (Chicago, 1950)Google Scholar and for histories of traveling salesmen, see articles in the special issue of Business History Review 82 (2008)Google Scholar.

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114 Ibid.; see advertisements in Heimann, Jim, ed., All-American Ads: 30s (Cologne, 2003), 2427Google Scholar.

115 Anastas Mikoyan outlined these contrasts between capitalist and Soviet advertising; Tsitron, “Bor'ba za Pokupatelia.”

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118 Butuzova, Kooperirovanie.

119 Natanson, “Reklama v Usloviiakh Sovetskoĭ Torgovli”; Bonnell, “The Representation of Women”; Vesela, “The Hardening of Cement.”

120 Hoffmann, Stalinist Values; Simpson, “Parading Myths.”

121 Hoffmann, Stalinist Values; Reid, “All Stalin's Women.”

122 Ibid.

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124 Marchand, Advertising the American Dream.

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127 Ibid., 17; Zhemchuzhina seems to refer to the US Cleanliness Institute, established in 1927 by Lever Brothers, Palmolive, and Colgate, among others, to teach the public about cleanliness; Sivulka, , Stronger than Dirt, 229–47Google Scholar; Jones, , Beauty Imagined, 99Google Scholar.

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129 Western companies also sought to democratize consumption but for the purpose of expanding the cosmetics market; Jones, Beauty Imagined.

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133 Kandiba, “Flakon Dukhov.”

134 Ibid.

135 Jones, Beauty Imagined; Sivulka, Stronger than Dirt.

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