Hostname: page-component-78c5997874-94fs2 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-10T08:22:07.120Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
  • English
  • Français

Field measurements of wave-induced pressure over wind-sea and swell

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  26 April 2006

Dieter Hasselmann  and
Jens Bösenberg
Dieter Hasselmann
Affiliation:
Meteorologisches Institut, Universität Hamburg, undesstrasse 55, D-2000 Hamburg 13, Germany
Jens Bösenberg
Affiliation:
Max-Planck-Institut fur Meteorologie, Bundesstrasse 55, D-2000 Hamburg 13, Germany
Get access Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Abstract

Results of two field experiments in the North Sea are presented. Pressure was measured at two fixed heights above the mean water level and correlated with simultaneous wave height measurements. Roughly 90 hours of data have been analysed and the results are in agreement with earlier results obtained by Snyder et al. (1981). Measurements over swell give no indication of wave decay or growth for waves travelling faster than the wind or against the wind.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 230 , September 1991 , pp. 391 - 428
Copyright
© 1991 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Al-Zanaidi, M. A. & Hui, W. H. 1984 Turbulent airflow over water waves - a numerical study. J. Fluid Mech. 148, 225–246.Google Scholar
Abramowitz, M. & Stegun, I. A. 1965 Handbook of Mathematical Functions. Dover.
Barber, N. F. & Ursell, F. 1948 The generation and propagation of ocean waves and swell. 1. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Land. A 240, 527–560.Google Scholar
Benjamin, T. B. 1959 Shearing flow over a wavy boundary. J. Fluid Mech. 6, 161–205.Google Scholar
Chalikov, D. V. 1986 Numerical simulation of the boundary layer above waves. Boundary-Layer Met. 34, 63–98.Google Scholar
Dobson, F. W. 1971a Measurements of atmospheric pressure on wind-generated sea waves. J. Fluid Mech. 48, 91–127.Google Scholar
Dobson, F. W. 1971a The damping of a group of sea waves. Boundary-Layer Met. 1, 399–410.Google Scholar
Dobson, F. W. 1985 Comment on ‘Measurements of wind velocity and pressure with a wave follower during MARSEN’, by S.V.Hsiao and O. H. Shemdin. J. Geophys. Res. 90, C5, 920–9208.Google Scholar
Dobson, F. W. & Elliott, J. A. 1978 Wave-pressure correlation measurements over growing waves with a wave follower and fixed-height pressure sensors. In Turbulent Fluxes through the Sea Surface, Wave Dynamics, and Prediction (ed. A. Favre & K. Hasselmann), pp. 421–4132. Plenum.
Donelan, M. A., Hamilton, J. & Hui, W. H. 1985 Directional pectra of wind-generated waves. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Lond. A 315, 509–562.Google Scholar
Elliott, J. A. 1972 Microscale pressure fluctuations near waves being generated by the wind. J. Fluid Mech.54, 427–448.Google Scholar
Essen, H. H., Gurgel, K. W. & Schirmer, F. 1989 Surface currents in the Norwegian Channel. Tellus 41A, 162–175.Google Scholar
Gent, P. R. 1977 A numerical model of the air flow above water waves. Part 2. J. Fluid Mech. 82, 349–369.Google Scholar
Gent, P. R. & Taylor, P. A. 1976 A numerical model of air flow above water waves. J. Fluid Mech. 77, 105–128.Google Scholar
GuUnther, H. W., Rosenthal, R. & Richter, K. 1979 Application of the parametrical wave prediction model to rapidly varying wind fields during JONSWAP 1973. J. Geophys. Res. 84, 4855–4864.Google Scholar
Hasselmann, D., BoUsenberg, J., Dunckel, M., Richter, K., GRuUnewald, M. & Carlson, H. 1986 Measurements of wave-induced pressure over surface gravity waves. In Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface (ed. O. M. Phillips & K. Hasselmann), pp. 353–368. Plenum.
Hasselmann, D. E., Dunckel, M. & Ewing, J. A. 1980 Directional wave spectra observed during JONSWAP 1973. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 10, 1264–1280.Google Scholar
Hasselmann, K. et al. 1973 Measurements of wind wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP). ErgaUnzungsheft z. Deutsch. Hydrogr. Ztschr. A, no. 12.Google Scholar
Hsiao, S. V. & Shemdin, 0. H. 1983 Measurements of wind velocity and pressure with a wave follower during Marsen. J. Geophys. Res. 88, C14, 9841–9849.Google Scholar
Hsiao, S. V. & Shemdin, O. H. 1985 Reply (to F. W. Dobson). J. Geophys. Res. 90, C5, 9209–9210.Google Scholar
Hsu, C. T., Wu, H. Y., Hsu, E. Y. & Street, R. L. 1982 Momentum and energy transfer in wind generation of waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 12, 929–951.Google Scholar
Jacobs, S. J. 1987 An asymptotic theory for the turbulent flow over a progressive water wave. J. Fluid Mech. 174, 69–80.Google Scholar
Janssen, P. A. E. M. & Komen, G. J. 1985 Effect of atmospheric stability on the growth of surface gravity waves. Boundary-Layer Met. 32, 85–96.Google Scholar
Janssen, P. A. E. M., Komen, G. J. & voogt, W. J. P. De 1987 Friction velocity scaling in wind wave generation. Boundary-Layer Met. 38, 29–35.Google Scholar
Jeffreys, H. 1924 On the formation of waves by wind. Proc. R. Soc. A 107, 189–206.Google Scholar
Kato, H. & Sano, K. 1971 An experimental study of the turbulent structure of wind over water waves. Rep. Port Harbour Res. Inst. 10, 3–42.Google Scholar
Kawai, S. 1979 Generation of initial wavelets by instability of a coupled shear flow and their evolution to wind waves. J. Fluid Mech. 93, 661–703.Google Scholar
Kendall, J. M. 1970 The turbulent boundary layer over a wall with progressive surface waves. J. Fluid Mech.41, 259–281.Google Scholar
Komen, G. J., Hasselmann, S. & Asselmann, K. 1984 On the existence of a fully developed wind-sea spectrum. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 14, 1271–1287.Google Scholar
Kondo, J., Fujinawa, Y. & Naito, G. 1972 Wave-induced fluctuation over the sea. J. Fluid Mech. 51, 751–771.Google Scholar
Lai, R. J. & Shemdin, O. H. 1971 Laboratory investigation of air turbulence above simple water waves. J. Geophys. Res. 76, 7334–7350.Google Scholar
Long, R. B. 1980a The statistical evaluation of directional spectrum estimates derived from pitch/roll buoy data. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 10, 944–952.Google Scholar
Long, R. B. 1980b A parametrical model for the vertical structure of the induced atmospheric pressure field above a spectrum of surface gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 99, 163–183.Google Scholar
Longuet-Higgins, M. S., Cartwright, D. E. & Smith, N. D. 1963 Observations of the directional spectrum of sea waves using the motions of a floating buoy. In Ocean Wave Spectra, pp. 111–136. Prentice Hall.
Mclean, J. W. 1983 Computation of turbulent flow over a moving wavy boundary. Phys. Fluids 26, 2065–2073.Google Scholar
Makin, V. K. 1979 The wind field over waves. Okeonologia 19, 206–212 (Engl. transl. Oceanology 19, 127–130).Google Scholar
Makin, V. K. 1980 Some results of numerical modelling of laboratory experiments to investigate the structure of air flow above waves. Izv. Akad. Nauk. S88R. Fiz. Atmos. Okeana, 16, 989–991 (Engl. transl. Izv. Atmos. Ocean. Phys. 16, 732–734).Google Scholar
Makin, V. K. 1981 Interaction of swell waves with head winds. Meteorologia i Gidrologia 11, 95–97 (Engl. transl. Sov. Met. Hydrol. 11, 79–81).Google Scholar
Makin, V. K. 1982 Numerical studies of wind-wave interaction. Okeanologia 22, 711–718 (Engl. transl. Oceanology 22, 525–530).Google Scholar
Makin, V. K. 1983a On wind energy transfer to surface gravity waves. Okeanologia 23, 711–718 (Engl. transl. Oceanology 23, 424–428.Google Scholar
Makin, V. K. 1983b Effect of stratification of an atmospheric layer over a water surface on the energy flux to the waves. Izv. Akad. Nauk. SSSR. Atmos. Ocean. Phys. 19, 765–767. (Engl. transl. Izv. Atmos. Ocean. Phys.19, 574–576).Google Scholar
Makin, V. K. & Chalikov, D. V. 1980 Laboratory studies of wind waves. Okeanologia 20, 806–817. (Engl. transl. Oceanology 20, 531–537).Google Scholar
Miles, J. W. 1957 On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. J. Fluid Mech.3, 185–204.Google Scholar
Miles, J. W. 1959 On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. Part 2. J. Fluid Mech. 6, 568–582.Google Scholar
Miles, J. W. 1967 On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. Part 5. J. Fluid Mech. 30, 163–175.Google Scholar
Mitsuyasu, H. & Honda, T. 1982 Wind-induced growth of water waves. J. Fluid Mech. 151, 427–442.Google Scholar
Mitsuyasu, H., Tasai, F., Suhara, T., Mizuno, S., Ohkuso, M., Honda, T. & Rikiishi, K. 1975 Observations of the directional spectrum of ocean waves using a cloverleaf buoy. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 5, 750–760.Google Scholar
MuUller, P., Olbers, D. J. & Willebrand, J. 1978 The IWEX spectrum. J. Geophys. Res. 83, 479–499.Google Scholar
Munk, W. H., Miller, G. R., Snodgrass, F. E. & Barber, N. F. 1963 Directional recording of swell from distant storms. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Land. A 255, 505–584.Google Scholar
Papadimitrakis, Y. A., Hsu, E. Y. & Street, R. L. 1985 On the resolution of organized spurious pressure fluctuations in wind-wave facilities. J. Acoust. Soc. Am.77, 896–906.Google Scholar
Papadimitrakis, Y. A., Hsu, E. Y. & Street, R. L. 1986 The role of wave-induced pressure fluctuations in the transfer processes across an air-water interface. J. Fluid Mech. 170, 113–137.Google Scholar
Papadimithakis, Y. A., Street, R. L. & Hsu, E. Y. 1988 The bursting sequence in the turbulent boundary layer over progressive, mechanically generated water waves. J. Fluid Mech. 193, 303–345.Google Scholar
Phillips, 0. M. 1957 On the generation of waves by turbulent wind. J. Fluid Mech.2, 417–445.Google Scholar
Plant, W. J. 1982 A relationship between wind stress and wave slope. J. Geophys. Res. 87, 1961–1967.Google Scholar
Shemdin, 0. H. & Hsu, E. Y. 1967 Direct measurement of aerodynamic pressure above a simple progressive gravity wave. J. Fluid Mech. 30, 403–416.Google Scholar
Snodgrass, F. W., Groves, G. W., Hasselmann, K. F., Miller, G. R., Munk, W. H. & Powers, W. H. 1966 Propagation of ocean swell across the Pacific. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Land. .A 259, 431–497.Google Scholar
Snyder, R. L. 1974 A field study of wave-induced pressure fluctuations above surface gravity waves. J. Mar. Res.32, 497–531.Google Scholar
Snyder, R. L., Dobson, F. W., Elliott, J. A. & Long, R. B. 1981 Array measurements of atmospheric pressure fluctuations above surface gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 102, 1–59.Google Scholar
Snyder, R. L., Long, R. B., Irish, J., Hunley, D. G. & Pflaum, N. C. 1974 An instrument to measure atmospheric pressure fluctuations above surface gravity waves. J. Mar. Res. 32, 485–496.Google Scholar
Stewart, R. H. 1970 Laboratory studies of the velocity field over deep-water waves. J. Fluid Mech. 42, 733–754.Google Scholar
Stewart, R. W. 1974 The air-sea momentum exchange. Boundary-Layer Met. 6, 151–167.Google Scholar
Takeuchi, K., Leavitt, E. & Chao, S. P. 1977 Effects of water waves on the structure of turbulent shear flow. J. Fluid Mech. 80, 535–559.Google Scholar
Townsend, A. A. 1972 Flow in a deep turbulent boundary layer over a surface distorted by water waves. J. Fluid Mech. 55, 719–735.Google Scholar
Townsend, A. A. 1980 The response of sheared turbulence to additional distortion. J. Fluid Mech.8, 171–191.Google Scholar
Wu, J. 1982 Wind stress coefficients over sea surface from breeze to hurricane. J. Geophys. Res. 87, 9704–9706.Google Scholar
Young, I. R. & Sobey, R. J. 1985 Measurements of the wind-wave energy flux in an opposing wind. J. Fluid Mech. 123, 427–442.Google Scholar