Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-p9bg8 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-26T06:53:32.131Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Interactions of currents and weakly nonlinear water waves in shallow water

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  26 April 2006

Sung B. Yoon
Affiliation:
Joseph DeFrees Hydraulics Laboratory, School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853 USA Present address: Korea Power Engineering Co. Inc., P.O. Box 631, Youngdong, Seoul, Korea.
Philip L.-F. Liu
Affiliation:
Joseph DeFrees Hydraulics Laboratory, School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853 USA

Abstract

Two-dimensional Boussinesq-type depth-averaged equations are derived for describing the interactions of weakly nonlinear shallow-water waves with slowly varying topography and currents. The current velocity varies appreciably within a characteristic wavelength. The effects of vorticity in the current field are considered. The wave field is decomposed into Fourier time harmonics. A set of evolution equations for the wave amplitude functions of different harmonics is derived by adopting the parabolic approximation. Numerical solutions are obtained for shallow-water waves propagating over rip currents on a plane beach and an isolated vortex ring. Numerical results show that the wave diffraction and nonlinearity are important in the examples considered.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1989 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Arthur, R. S. 1950 Refraction of shallow water waves: the combined effects of currents and underwater topography. EOS Trans. AGU 31, 549552.Google Scholar
Boou, N. 1981 Gravity waves on water with nonuniform depth and current. Rep. 81-1. Dept. of Civil Engrg, Delft University of Technology, Delft.
Bretherton, F. P. & Garrett, C. J. R. 1969 Wave trains in inhomogeneous moving media. Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A 302, 529554.Google Scholar
Kirby, J. T. 1984 A note on linear surface wave-current interaction over slowly varying topography. J. Geophys. Res. 89, 745747.Google Scholar
Kirby, J. T. 1986 Higher-order approximations in the parabolic equation method for water waves. J. Geophys. Res. 91, 933952.Google Scholar
Liu, P. L.-F. 1983 Wave-current interaction on a slowly varying topography. J. Geophys. Res. 88, 44214426.Google Scholar
Liu, P. L.-F. & Mei, C. C. 1975 Effects of a breakwater on nearshore currents due to breaking waves. Tech. Mem. 57. Coastal Engineering Research Center.
Liu, P. L.-F., Yoon, S. B. & Kirby, J. T. 1985 Nonlinear refraction-diffraction of waves in shallow water. J. Fluid Mech. 153, 184201.Google Scholar
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. & Stewart, R. W. 1960 Changes in form of short gravity waves on long waves and tidal currents. J. Fluid Mech. 8, 565583.Google Scholar
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. & Stewart, R. W. 1961 The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents. J. Fluid Mech. 10, 529549.Google Scholar
McKee, W. D. 1974 Waves on a shearing current: a uniformly valid asymptotic solution. Proc. Camb. Phil. Soc. 75, 295301.Google Scholar
Madsen, O. S. & Mei, C. C. 1969 Dispersion of long waves of finite amplitude over an uneven bottom. Rep. 117. Dept. of Civil Engrg, MIT.
Mapp, G. R., Welch, C. S. & Munday, J. C. 1985 Wave refraction by warm core rings. J. Geophys. Res. 90, 71537162.Google Scholar
Peregrine, D. H. 1967 Long waves on a beach. J. Fluid Mech. 27, 815827.Google Scholar
Peregrine, D. H. 1976 Interaction of water waves and currents. Adv. Appl. Mech. 16, 10117.Google Scholar
Peregrine, D. H. & Smith, R. 1975 Stationary gravity waves on non-uniform free streams. Math. Proc. Camb. Phil. Soc. 77, 415438.Google Scholar
Phillips, O. M. 1966 The dynamics of the Upper Ocean. Cambridge University Press.
Smith, R. 1976 Giant waves. J. Fluid Mech. 77, 417431.Google Scholar
Yoon, S. B. 1987 Propagation of shallow-water waves over slowly varying depth and currents. Ph.D. Thesis, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY.