Hostname: page-component-78c5997874-j824f Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-10T11:02:46.581Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Refraction–diffraction model for linear surface water waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  19 April 2006

Carlos Lozano
Affiliation:
Applied Mathematics Institute and College of Marine Studies, University of Delaware, Newark, DE 19711
Philip L.-F. Liu
Affiliation:
School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14850

Abstract

Based on the parabolic approximation, a refraction—diffraction model for linear water waves is developed. With the assumption that the water depth (refraction index) is slowly varying, the model equation describes the forward-scattered wavefield. Two examples are considered in particular: (i) wave diffraction by a long thin barrier on a uniform slope, and (ii) wave convergence over a semicircular step shoal. For the former problem, a similarity solution in terms of Fresnel integrals is obtained for the wavefield in the neighbourhood of the shadow boundary. For the latter problem, the resulting Schrödinger equation is solved numerically. The wavefield near the caustics as well as in the shadow region is obtained and compared with experimental data.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1980 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Candel, S. M. 1979 J. Fluid Mech. 90, 465507.
Chao, Y.-Y. 1971 J. Geophys. Res. 76, 74017407.
Keller, J. B. 1958 J. Fluid Mech. 4, 607614.
Kiriegsmann, G. A. & Larsen, E. W. 1978 SIAM J. Appl. Math. 34, 200204.
LeBlond, P. H. & Mysak, L. A. 1978 Waves in the Ocean. Elsevier.
Liu, P. L-F. & Mei, C. C. 1976 J. Geophys. Res. 81, 30793084.
Liu, P. L.-F., Lozano, C. J. & Pantazaras, N. 1979 J. Appl. Ocean Res. 1, 147157.
Lozano, C. J. 1979 Appl. Math. Inst. Univ. Delaware, Newark De, Tech. Rep. no. 25.
Ludwig, D. 1964 Comm. Pure Appl. Math. 19, 215250.
Mei, C. C. & Tuck, E. O. 1980 SIAM J. Appl. Math. (to appear).
Shen, M. C. 1972 In Waves on Beaches (ed. by R. E. Meyer). Academic.
Shen, M. C. & Keller, J. B. 1975 SIAM J. Appl. Math. 28, 857875.
Wehausen, J. & Laitone, E. 1960 In Handbuch der Physik, IX-3. Springer.
Whalin, R. W. 1971 U.S. Army Engng Waterways Expt. Station, Vicksburg, Mi, Res. Rep. H71-3.