Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-7cvxr Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-26T08:51:11.155Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
  • English
  • Français

Mass transport in the boundary layer at a free oscillating surface

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  28 March 2006

M. S. Longuet-Higgins
M. S. Longuet-Higgins
Affiliation:
National Institute of Oceanography, Wormley, Surrey
Get access Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Abstract

In a previous paper (1953b) it was shown theoretically that just below the boundary layer at the surface of a free wave the mass-transport gradient should be exactly twice that given by Stokes's irrotational theory. The present paper describes careful experiments which confirm the higher value of the gradient.

The results have an implication for any oscillatory boundary layer at the free surface of a fluid; such a boundary layer must generate a second-order mean vorticity which diffuses inwards into the interior of the fluid.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 8 , Issue 2 , June 1960 , pp. 293 - 306
Copyright
© 1960 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Allen, J. & Gibson, D. H. 1959 Experiments on the displacement of water by waves of various heights and frequencies. Min. Proc. Instn Civ. Engrs, 13, 363–86.Google Scholar
Bagnold, R. A. 1947 Sand movement by waves: some small-scale experiments with sand of very low density. J. Inst. Civ. Engrs, 27, 447–69.Google Scholar
Harrison, W. J. 1908 The influence of viscosity and capillarity on waves of finite amplitude. Proc. Lond. Math. Soc. (2), 7, 107–21.Google Scholar
Lamb, H. 1932 Hydrodynamics, 6th ed. Cambridge University Press.
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1953a On the decrease of velocity with depth in an irrotational water wave. Proc. Camb. Phil. Soc. 49, 552–60.Google Scholar
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1953 Mass transport in water waves. Phil. Trans. A, 245, 535–81.Google Scholar
Russell, R. C. H. & Osorio, J. D. C. 1958 An experimental investigation of drift profiles in a closed channel. Proc. 6th Conf. on Coastal Engan, Miami, 1957, pp. 171–93. Council on Wave Res., University of California, Berkeley.
Stokes, G. G. 1847 On the theory of oscillatory waves. Trans. Camb. Phil. Soc. 8, 441–55; reprinted in Math. Phys. Pap., 1, 314–26.Google Scholar
Vincent, G. & Ruellan, F. 1957 Contribution à l'étude des mouvements solides provoqués per la houle sur un fond horizontal. Houille blanche, B, 12, 605–722.Google Scholar
Vincent, G. 1958 Contribution to the study of sediment transport on a horizontal bed due to wave action. Proc. 6th Conf. Coastal Engng, Miami, 1957, pp. 326–55. Council on Wave Res., University of California, Berkeley.