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Wave evolution over a gradual slope with turbulent friction

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 April 2006

John W. Miles
John W. Miles
Affiliation:
Institute of Geophysics and Planetary Physics, University of California. La Jolla 92093
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Abstract

The evolution of a weakly nonlinear, weakly dispersive gravity wave in water of depth d over a bottom of gradual slope δ and Chezy friction coefficient Cf is studied. It is found that an initially sinusoidal wave evolves into a periodic sequence of solitary waves with relative amplitude a/d = α1 = 15δ/4Cf if α1 < αb, where αb is the relative amplitude above which breaking occurs. This prediction is supported by observations (Wells 1978) of the evolution of swell over mudflats.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 133 , August 1983 , pp. 207 - 216
Copyright
© 1983 Cambridge University Press

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