Hostname: page-component-78c5997874-94fs2 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-10T21:01:14.426Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Dimensions of Expertise in Wine Evaluation*

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  08 December 2016

Robert H. Ashton*
Affiliation:
Fuqua School of Business, Duke University, 100 Fuqua Drive, Box 90120, Durham, NC 27708; e-mail: robert.ashton@duke.edu.

Abstract

This article explores the question of what distinguishes novices from experts in wine evaluation. Is it experts’ superior sensory abilities related to taste and smell, their superior cognitive abilities related to knowledge and memory, or a combination of both—and if a combination, which of the two dimensions of expertise, sensory or cognitive, seems to be more important? I address these issues by considering what has been learned in the past 30+ years from research concerning the sensory and cognitive dimensions of expertise in wine evaluation. The research examines expert/novice differences at both the chemical component level (detecting, discriminating among, and describing wine-relevant chemical components) and the holistic level (hedonic evaluation of wine as an integrated manifestation of its components). (JEL Classification: C93)

Type
Articles
Copyright
Copyright © American Association of Wine Economists 2016 

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

Footnotes

*

I am indebted to two anonymous reviewers and to the editor, Karl Storchmann, for suggestions that have improved the development and exposition of this paper.

References

Amerine, M.A., and Roessler, E.B. (1983). Wines: Their Sensory Evaluation. New York: W.H. Freeman.Google Scholar
Armstrong, J.S. (2001). Combining forecasts. In Armstrong, J.S. (Ed.), Principles of Forecasting: A Handbook for Researchers and Practitioners. Norwell, MA: Kluwer Academic, 417439.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Ashton, R.H. (2000). A review and analysis of research on the test-retest reliability of professional judgment. Journal of Behavioral Decision Making, 13, 277294.Google Scholar
Ashton, R.H. (2011). Improving experts’ wine quality judgments: Two heads are better than one. Journal of Wine Economics, 6(2), 160178.Google Scholar
Ashton, R.H. (2012). Reliability and consensus of experienced wine judges: Expertise within and between? Journal of Wine Economics, 7(1), 7087.Google Scholar
Ashton, R.H. (2013). Is there consensus among wine quality ratings of prominent critics? An empirical analysis of red Bordeaux, 2004–2010. Journal of Wine Economics, 8(2), 225234.Google Scholar
Ashton, R.H. (2014a). “Nothing good ever came from New Jersey”: Expectations and the sensory perception of wines. Journal of Wine Economics, 9(3), 304319.Google Scholar
Ashton, R.H. (2014b). Wine as an experience good: Price versus enjoyment in blind tastings of expensive and inexpensive wines. Journal of Wine Economics, 9(2), 171182.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Ashton, R.H. (2015). Price, prestige, and the sensory perception of underdog wines. Wine & Viticulture Journal, 30, 6366.Google Scholar
Ashton, R.H. (2016). The value of expert opinion in the pricing of Bordeaux wine futures. Journal of Wine Economics, 11(2), 261288.Google Scholar
Asimov, E. (2012). From 1982, glasses more than full. New York Times, March 21, D1.Google Scholar
Ballester, J., Dacremont, C., Le Fur, Y., and Etiévant, P. (2005). The role of olfaction in the elaboration and use of the Chardonnay wine concept. Food Quality and Preference, 16, 351359.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Ballester, J., Patris, B., Symoneaux, R., and Valentin, D. (2008). Conceptual vs. perceptual wine spaces: Does expertise matter? Food Quality and Preference , 19, 267276.Google Scholar
Bartoshuk, L.M. (1993). The biological basis of food perception and acceptance. Food Quality and Preference, 4, 2132.Google Scholar
Bartoshuk, L.M., Conner, E., Grubin, D., Karrer, T., Kochenbach, K., Palcso, M., Snow, D., Pelchat, M., and Danowski, S. (1993). PROP supertasters and the perception of ethyl alcohol. Chemical Senses, 18, 526527.Google Scholar
Bartoshuk, L.M., Fast, K., Karrer, T.A., Marino, S., Price, R.A., and Reed, D.A. (1992). PROP supertasters and the perception of sweetness and bitterness. Chemical Senses, 17, 594.Google Scholar
Bartoshuk, L.M., Rifkin, B., Marks, L.E., and Bars, P. (1986). Taste and aging. Journal of Gerontology, 41, 5157.Google Scholar
Bende, M., and Nordin, S. (1997). Perceptual learning in olfaction: Professional wine tasters versus controls. Physiology & Behavior, 62, 10651070.Google Scholar
Berg, H.W., Filipello, F., Hinreiner, E., and Webb, A.D. (1955). Evaluation of thresholds and minimum difference concentrations for various constituents of wines. I. Water solutions of pure substances. Food Technology, 9, 2326.Google Scholar
Bodington, J.C. (2015). Evaluating wine-tasting results and randomness with a mixture of rank preference models. Journal of Wine Economics, 10(1), 3146.Google Scholar
Borges, J., Real, A.C., Sarsfield Cabral, J., and Jones., G.V. (2012). A new method to obtain a consensus ranking of a region's vintages’ quality. Journal of Wine Economics, 7, 88107.Google Scholar
Brochet, F. (2001). Chemical object representation in the field of consciousness. Application presented for the Grand Prix of the Académie Amorim following work carried out towards a doctorate from the Faculty of Oenology, University of Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France.Google Scholar
Brochet, F., and Dubourdieu, D. (2001). Wine descriptive language supports cognitive specificity of chemical senses. Brain and Language, 77, 187196.Google Scholar
Burnham, D., and Skilleas, O.M. (2008). You'll never drink alone: Wine tasting and aesthetic practice. In Allhoff, F. (Ed.), Wine & Philosophy: A Symposium on Thinking and Drinking. Malden, MA: Blackwell, 157171.Google Scholar
Cao, J. (2014). Quantifying randomness versus consensus in wine quality ratings. Journal of Wine Economics, 9(2), 202213.Google Scholar
Cao, J., and Stokes, L. (2010). Evaluation of wine judge performance through three characteristics: Bias, discrimination, and variation. Journal of Wine Economics, 5(2), 132142.Google Scholar
Cardello, A.V. (1994). Consumer expectations and their role in food acceptance. In MacFie, H.J.H., and Thomson, D.M.H. (Eds.), Measurement of Food Preferences. London: Blackie Academic and Professional, 253297.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Chi, M.T.H., Feltovich, P.J., and Glaser, R. (1981). Categorization and representation of physics problems by experts and novices. Cognitive Science, 5, 121152.Google Scholar
Chrea, C., Valentin, D., Sulmont-Rossé, C., Mai, H.L., Nguyen, D.H., and Abdi, H. (2004). Culture and odor categorization: Agreement between cultures depends upon the odors. Food Quality and Preference, 15, 669679.Google Scholar
Cicchetti, D.V. (2004a). On designing experiments and analysing data to assess the reliability and accuracy of blind wine tastings. Journal of Wine Research, 15, 221226.Google Scholar
Cicchetti, D.V. (2004b). Who won the 1976 blind tasting of French Bordeaux and U.S. Cabernets? Parametrics to the rescue. Journal of Wine Research , 15, 211220.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Clemen, R.T. (1989). Combining forecasts: A review and annotated bibliography. International Journal of Forecasting, 5, 559583.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Cliff, M.A., and King, M.C. (1997). The evaluation of judges at wine competitions: The application of eggshell plots. Journal of Wine Research, 8, 7580.Google Scholar
Darby, M.R., and Karni, E. (1973). Free competition and the optimal amount of fraud. Journal of Law and Economics, 16, 6788.Google Scholar
Dawes, R.M. (1970). An Inequality Concerning Correlation of Composites vs. Composites of Correlations. Methodological Note, vol. 1, no. 1. Eugene, OR: Oregon Research Institute.Google Scholar
Deliza, R., and MacFie, H.J.H. (1996). The generation of sensory expectation by external cues and its effect on sensory perception and hedonic ratings: A review. Journal of Sensory Studies, 11, 103128.Google Scholar
Djordjevic, J., Zatorre, R.J., and Jones-Gotman, M. (2004). Effects of perceived and imagined odors on taste detection. Chemical Senses, 29, 199208.Google Scholar
Einhorn, H.J. (1970). The use of nonlinear, noncompensatory models in decision making. Psychological Bulletin, 73, 221230.Google Scholar
Engen, T. (1982). The Perception of Odors. New York: Academic Press.Google Scholar
Firestein, S. (2001). How the olfactory system makes sense of scents. Nature, 413, 211218.Google Scholar
Garber, L.L., Hyatt, E.M., and Starr, R.G. (2000). The effects of food color on perceived flavor. Journal of Marketing Theory and Practice, 17, 5971.Google Scholar
Gawel, R. (1997). The use of language by trained and untrained experienced wine tasters. Journal of Sensory Studies, 12, 267284.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Gibson, J.J., and Gibson, E.J. (1955). Perceptual learning: Differentiation or enrichment? Psychological Review, 62, 3241.Google Scholar
Gilbert, A.N., Martin, R., and Kemp, S.E. (1996). Cross-modal correspondence between vision and olfaction: The color of smells. American Journal of Psychology, 109, 335351.Google Scholar
Ginsburgh, V., and Zang, I. (2012). Shapley ranking of wines. Journal of Wine Economics, 7(2), 169180.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Goldstein, R. (2008). What does it take to get a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence? Blindtaste, August 15, http://blindtaste.com/2008/08/15/what-does-it-take-to-get-a-wine-spectator-award-of-excellence/.Google Scholar
Goode, J. (2008). Experiencing wine: Why critics mess up (some of the time). In Allhoff, F. (Ed.), Wine & Philosophy: A Symposium on Thinking and Drinking. Malden, MA: Blackwell, 137154.Google Scholar
Goode, J. (2014). The Science of Wine: From Vine to Glass. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Haller, R., Rummel, C., Henneberg, S., Pollmer, U., and Köster, E.P. (1999). The influence of early experience with vanillin on food preference later in life. Chemical Senses, 24, 465467.Google Scholar
Hodgson, R.T. (2008). An examination of judge reliability at a major U.S. wine competition. Journal of Wine Economics, 3, 105113.Google Scholar
Hodgson, R.T. (2009a). An analysis of the concordance among 13 U.S. wine competitions. Journal of Wine Economics, 4, 19.Google Scholar
Hodgson, R.T. (2009b). How expert are “expert” wine judges? Journal of Wine Economics, 4, 233241.Google Scholar
Hoegg, J., and Alba, J.W. (2007). Taste perception: More than meets the tongue. Journal of Consumer Research, 33, 490498.Google Scholar
Hogarth, R.M. (1978). A note on aggregating opinions. Organizational Behavior and Human Performance, 21, 4046.Google Scholar
Hogarth, R.M. (1987). Judgement and Choice: The Psychology of Decision. New York: Wiley.Google Scholar
Hughson, A.L., and Boakes, R.A. (2001). Perceptual and cognitive aspects of wine expertise. Australian Journal of Psychology, 53, 103108.Google Scholar
Hughson, A.L., and Boakes, R.A. (2002). The knowing nose: The role of knowledge in wine expertise. Food Quality and Preference, 13, 463472.Google Scholar
Hulkower, N.D. (2009). The Judgment of Paris according to Borda. Journal of Wine Research, 20, 171182.Google Scholar
Jackson, R.S. (2008). Wine Science: Principles and Applications, 2nd ed. New York: Elsevier.Google Scholar
Klaaren, K.J., Hodges, S.D., and Wilson, T.D. (1994). The role of affective expectations in subjective experience and decision-making. Social Cognition, 12, 77101.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Laing, D.G., and Francis, G.W. (1989). The capacity of humans to identify odors in mixtures. Physiology & Behavior, 46, 809814.Google Scholar
Larrick, R.P., and Soll, J.B. (2006). Intuitions about combining opinions: Misappreciation of the averaging principle. Management Science, 52, 111127.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Lawless, H.T. (1984). Flavor description of white wine by “expert” and nonexpert wine consumers. Journal of Food Science, 49, 120123.Google Scholar
Lawless, H.T. (1985). Psychological perspectives on winetasting and recognition of volatile flavours. In Birch, G., and Lindley, M. (Eds.), Alcoholic Beverages. London: Elsevier Applied Science.Google Scholar
Lawless, H.T. (1995). Dimensions of sensory quality: A critique. Food Quality and Preference, 6, 191199.Google Scholar
Lawless, H., Liu, Y., and Goldwyn, C. (1997). Evaluation of wine quality using a small-panel hedonic scaling method. Journal of Sensory Studies, 12, 317332.Google Scholar
Lehrer, A. (1975). Talking about wine. Language, 51, 901923.Google Scholar
Lehrer, A. (1983). Wine and Conversation. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.Google Scholar
Lehrer, A. (2009). Wine & Conversation, 2nd ed. New York: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Lindemann, B. (2001). Receptors and transduction in taste. Nature, 413, 219225.Google Scholar
Livermore, A., and Laing, D.G. (1996). Influence of training and experience on the perception of multicomponent odor mixtures. Journal of Experimental Psychology: Human Perception and Performance, 22, 267277.Google Scholar
Maga, J.A. (1974). Influence of color on taste thresholds. Chemical Senses and Flavor, 1, 115119.Google Scholar
Maier, N.R.F. (1955). Psychology in Industry. Boston, MA: Houghton-Mifflin.Google Scholar
Marks, L.E. (1978). The Unity of the Senses: Interrelations among the Modalities. New York: Academic Press.Google Scholar
Masset, P., Weisskopf, J.-P., and Cossutta, M. (2015). Wine tasters, ratings, and en primeur prices. Journal of Wine Economics, 10(1), 75107.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
McCoy, E. (2005). The Emperor of Wine: The Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr. and the Reign of American Taste. New York: Ecco.Google Scholar
Melcher, J., and Schooler, J. (1996). The misremembrance of wines past: Verbal and perceptual expertise differentially mediate verbal overshadowing of taste memory. Journal of Memory and Language, 35, 231245.Google Scholar
Miller, I.J., and Reedy, F.E. (1990a). Quantification of fungiform papillae and taste pores in living human subjects. Chemical Senses, 15, 281294.Google Scholar
Miller, I.J., and Reedy, F.E. (1990b). Variations in human taste bud density and taste intensity perception. Physiology & Behavior, 47, 12131219.Google Scholar
Morrot, G. (1999). Can we improve taster performance? In Wine tasting, special issue, Journal International des Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin, 2935.Google Scholar
Morrot, G., Brochet, F., and Dubourdieu, D. (2001). The color of odors. Brain and Language, 79, 309320.CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed
Mozell, M.M., Smith, B.P., Smith, P.E., Sullivan, R.L., and Swender, P. (1969). Nasal chemoreception in flavor identification. Archives of Otolaryngology, 90, 367373.Google Scholar
Nelson, P. (1970). Information and consumer behavior. Journal of Political Economy, 78, 311329.Google Scholar
Nelson, P. (1974). Advertising as information. Journal of Political Economy, 81, 729754.Google Scholar
Noble, A.C., Arnold, R.A., Buechsenstein, J., Leach, E.J., Schmidt, J.O., and Stern, P.M. (1987). Modification of a standardized system of wine aroma terminology. American Journal of Enology and Viticulture, 38, 143146.Google Scholar
Noble, A.C., Arnold, R.A., Masuda, B.M., Pecore, S.D., Schmidt, J.O., and Stern, P.M. (1984). Progress towards a standardized system of wine aroma terminology. American Journal of Enology and Viticulture, 35, 107109.Google Scholar
Nossiter, J. (2009). Liquid Memory: Why Wine Matters. New York: Farrah, Straus, and Giroux.Google Scholar
O'Mahony, M., and Ishii, R. (1986). The umami taste concept: Implications for the dogma of four basic tastes. In Kawamura, Y., and Kare, M.R. (Eds.), Umami: A Basic Taste. New York: Marcel Dekker, 7593.Google Scholar
Pangborn, R.M., Berg, H.W., and Hansen, B. (1963). The influence of color on discrimination of sweetness in dry table-wine. American Journal of Psychology, 76, 492495.Google Scholar
Parr, W.V. (2002). Exploring the nature of wine expertise. Australian and New Zealand Wine Industry Journal, 17, 3236.Google Scholar
Parr, W.V., Green, J.A., White, K.G., and Sherlock, R.R. (2007). The distinctive flavor of New Zealand Sauvignon blanc: Sensory characterisation by wine professionals. Food Quality and Preference, 18, 849861.Google Scholar
Parr, W.V., Heatherbell, D., and White, K.G. (2002). Demystifying wine expertise: Olfactory threshold, perceptual skill and semantic memory in expert and novice wine judges. Chemical Senses, 27, 747755.Google Scholar
Parr, W.V., Valentin, D., Green, J.A., and Dacremont, C. (2010). Evaluation of French and New Zealand sauvignon wines by experienced French wine assessors. Food Quality and Preference, 21, 5664.Google Scholar
Parr, W.V., White, K.G., and Heatherbell, D.A. (2003). The nose knows: Influence of colour on perception of wine aroma. Journal of Wine Research, 14, 79101.Google Scholar
Parr, W.V., White, K.G., and Heatherbell, D.A. (2004). Exploring the nature of wine expertise: What underlies wine experts’ olfactory recognition memory advantage? Food Quality and Preference, 15, 411420.Google Scholar
Plassmann, H., O'Doherty, J., Shiv, B., and Rangel, A. (2008). Marketing actions can modulate neural representations of experienced pleasantness. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America, 105, 10501054.Google Scholar
Quandt, R.E. (2006). Measurement and inference in wine tasting. Journal of Wine Economics, 1(1), 730.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Quandt, R.E. (2007). On wine bullshit: Some new software? Journal of Wine Economics, 2(2), 129135.Google Scholar
Rabin, M.D., and Cain, W.S. (1984). Odor recognition: Familiarity, identifiability, and encoding consistency. Journal of Experimental Psychology: Learning, Memory, and Cognition, 10, 316325.Google Scholar
Reuter, J. (2009). Does advertising bias product reviews? An analysis of wine ratings. Journal of Wine Economics, 4, 125151.Google Scholar
Rosch, E., and Mervis, C.B. (1975). Family resemblances: Studies in the internal structure of categories. Cognitive Psychology, 7, 573605.Google Scholar
Sakai, N., Imada, S., Saito, S., Kobayakawa, T., and Deguchi, Y. (2005). The effect of visual images on perception of odors. Chemical Senses, 30, 244245.Google Scholar
Sauvageot, F. (1999). Sensory evaluation. In Wine tasting, special issue, Journal International des Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin, 6169.Google Scholar
Sauvageot, F., Urdapilleta, I., and Peyron, D. (2006). Within and between variations of texts elicited from nine wine experts. Food Quality and Preference, 17, 429444.Google Scholar
Shanteau, J. (1987). Psychological characteristics of expert decision makers. In Mumpower, J.L., Phillips, L.D., Renn, O., and Uppuluri, V.R.R. (Eds.), Expert Judgment and Expert Systems. Berlin: Springer-Verlag, 289304.Google Scholar
Solomon, G.E.A. (1990). The psychology of novice and expert wine talk. American Journal of Psychology, 103, 495517.Google Scholar
Solomon, G.E.A. (1991). Language and categorization in wine expertise. In Lawless, H., and Klein, B. (Eds.), Sensory Science Theory and Applications in Foods. New York: Marcel Dekker, 269294.Google Scholar
Solomon, G.E.A. (1997). Conceptual change and wine expertise. Journal of the Learning Sciences, 6, 4160.Google Scholar
Spence, C., Levitan, C.A., Shankar, M.U., and Zampini, M. (2010). Does food color influence taste and flavor perception in humans? Chemosensory Perception, 3, 6884.Google Scholar
Stevens, J.C., Bartoshuk, L.M., and Cain, W.S. (1984). Chemical senses and aging: Taste versus smell. Chemical Senses, 9, 167179.Google Scholar
Stevens, J.C., and Cain, W.S. (1993). Changes in taste and flavor in aging. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 33, 2737.Google Scholar
Stevens, J.C., Cain, W.S., and Burke, R.J. (1988). Variability of olfactory thresholds. Chemical Senses, 13, 643653.Google Scholar
Storchmann, K. (2012). Wine economics. Journal of Wine Economics, 7(1), 133.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Stuen, E.T., Miller, J.R., and Stone, R.W. (2015). An analysis of wine critic consensus: A study of Washington and California wines. Journal of Wine Economics, 10(1), 4761.Google Scholar
Swiegers, J.H., Chambers, P.J., and Pretorius, I.S. (2005). Olfaction and taste: Human perception, physiology and genetics. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research, 11, 109113.Google Scholar
Taber, G.M. (2011). A Toast to Bargain Wines: How Innovators, Iconoclasts, and Winemaking Revolutionaries Are Changing the Way the World Drinks. New York: Scribner.Google Scholar
Taub, D. (2006). Fifty cases of “perfect” 1982 Bordeaux sell for $1.05 million. Bloomberg, November 20. http://www.bloomberg.com Google Scholar
Thorngate, J.H. (1997). The physiology of human sensory response to wine: A review. American Journal of Enology and Viticulture, 48, 271279.Google Scholar
Urdapilleta, I., Parr, W., Dacremont, C., and Green, J. (2011). Semantic and perceptive organisation of Sauvignon blanc wine characteristics: Influence of expertise. Food Quality and Preference, 22, 119128.Google Scholar
Veale, R., and Quester, P. (2008). Consumer sensory evaluations of wine quality: The respective influence of price and country of origin. Journal of Wine Economics, 3(1), 1029.Google Scholar
Voss, R. (2004). Robinson, Parker have a row over Bordeaux. San Francisco Chronicle, May 24, F2.Google Scholar
Weil, R.L. (2001). Parker v. Prial: The death of the vintage chart. Chance, 14, 2731.Google Scholar
Weil, R.L. (2005). Analysis of reserve and regular bottlings: Why pay for a difference only the critics claim to notice? Chance, 18, 915.Google Scholar
Weil, R.L. (2007). Debunking critics’ wine words: Can amateurs distinguish the smell of asphalt from the taste of cherries? Journal of Wine Economics, 2(2), 136144.Google Scholar
Zellner, D.A., Bartoli, A.M., and Eckard, R. (1991). Influence of color on odor identification and liking ratings. American Journal of Psychology, 104, 547561.Google Scholar
Zellner, D.A., and Kautz, M.A. (1990). Color affects perceived odor intensity. Journal of Experimental Psychology: Human Perception and Performance, 16, 391397.Google Scholar
Zuniga, J.R., Davis, S.H., Englehardt, R.A., Miller, J.I., Schiffman, S.S., and Phillips, C. (1993). Taste performance on the anterior human tongue varies with fungiform taste bud density. Chemical Senses, 18, 449460.Google Scholar