Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-q99xh Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-28T04:14:20.035Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

The Italian coffee triangle: From Brazilian colonos to Ethiopian colonialisti

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 May 2021

Diana Garvin*
Affiliation:
Department of Romance Languages, University of Oregon, Eugene, USA

Abstract

This article investigates the history of coffee culture across three continents during the Fascist ventennio (1922–45.) By using the novel framework of coffee, from the bean in the field to the machine in the caffè, it connects interwar histories that previously have been explored independently. Specifically, it examines the transnational economics of coffee bean trade routes and the colonial imagery of coffee advertising to argue that caffès emerged as key sites for promoting the Fascist imperial projects in East Africa – an architectural and artistic legacy that remains in place today. Ultimately, this trajectory broadens the way that we understand how food and farming became politicised during the Fascist period. By untangling the interwar trade of beans and bodies between Italy, Brazil, and Ethiopia, this article brings to light an untold story of caffeinated imperial aggression and resistance.

L'articolo ricostruisce una storia culturale del caffè attraverso tre continenti durante il ventennio fascista (1922–1945). Facendo riferimento alla "struttura innovativa" del caffè, che va dal chicco vero e proprio alla macchina da caffè usata nei bar, questo saggio intreccia le varie storie e le loro interpretazioni durante il periodo interbellico poichè – in precedenza – erano state esaminate come fenomeni indipendenti e non interconnessi. In particolare si analizza la dimensione (economica) transnazionale delle rotte commerciali del caffè (inteso come prodotto) assieme all'immaginario "coloniale" usato per le pubblicità, al fine di argomentare che i caffè (intesi come luoghi fisici) sono emersi come luoghi chiave per la promulgazione dei progetti imperiali del fascismo in Africa Orientale Italiana. Questa è un'eredità architettonica e artistica che persiste ancora oggi. In sintesi, questa nuova prespettiva permente di ampliare la nostra comprensione su come il cibo e l'agricoltura siano stati politicizzati durante il periodo fascista. Sgrovigliando il nodo delle rotte tra Italia, Brasile ed Etiopia, l'articolo racconta una storia dimenticata fatta di aggressione fascista e di resistenza eroica.

Type
Research Articles
Copyright
Copyright © The Author(s), 2021. Published by Cambridge University Press on behalf of the Association for the Study of Modern Italy

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Aliano, D. 2005. ‘Brazil through Italian Eyes: The Debate over Emigration to São Paolo during the 1920s’. Altreitalie 31, July–December.Google Scholar
Atkinson, D. 2005. ‘Constructing Italian Africa: Geography and Politics’. In Italian Colonialism, edited by Ben-Ghiat, R. and Fuller, M.. New York: Palgrave Macmillan.Google Scholar
De Michelis, G. 1923. L'Emigrazione Italiana dal 1910 al 1923. Vols. 1–2. Rome.Google Scholar
Eakin, M. 1997. Brazil: The Once and Future Country. New York: St. Martin's Press.Google Scholar
Koehler, J. 2017. Where the Wild Coffee Grows. New York: Bloomsbury.Google Scholar
League of Nations. 1936. ‘Proposal IV’. The League from Year to Year: 1935. Geneva: The League of Nations.Google Scholar
McCook, S. 2006. ‘Global Rust Belt: Hemileia Vastatrix and the Ecological Integration of World Coffee Production since 1850’. Journal of Global History 1 (2): 177–95.10.1017/S174002280600012XCrossRefGoogle Scholar
Peveri, V. 2012. L'Albero Delle Donne. Etnografia Nelle Piantagioni e Cucine d'Etiopia. Bologna: Emil.Google Scholar
Pinkus, K. 1995. Bodily Regimes: Italian Advertising under Fascism. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press.Google Scholar
Ponzanesi, S. 2005. ‘Beyond the Black Venus: Colonial Sexual Politics and Contemporary Visual Practices’. In Italian Colonialism: Legacy and Memory, edited by Andall, J. and Duncan, D.. London: Peter Lang.Google Scholar
Ponzanesi, S. 2012. ‘The Color of Love: Madamismo and Interracial Relationships in the Italian Colonies’. Research in African Literatures 43 (2): 155–72.10.2979/reseafrilite.43.2.155CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Povoledo, E. 2019. ‘Caffeine Laced with Crema: A Plan to Exalt Italy's Espresso: Campaigning to Receive Cultural Heritage Status’. The New York Times, International section, 4 December.Google Scholar
Saraiva, T. 2018. Fascist Pigs: Technoscientific Organisms and the History of Fascism. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.Google Scholar
Scarpellini, E. and Mazhar, N.G.. 2016. Food and Foodways in Italy from 1861 to the Present. New York: Palgrave Macmillan.10.1057/9781137569622CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Schnapp, J.T. 2001. ‘The Romance of Caffeine and Aluminum’. Critical Inquiry 28 (1).10.1086/449039CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Tilley, H. 2011. Africa as a Living Laboratory: Empire, Development, and the Problem of Scientific Knowledge, 1870–1950. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.10.7208/chicago/9780226803487.001.0001CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Topik, S. and Marichal, C.. 2006. From Silver to Cocaine. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.10.1215/9780822388029CrossRefGoogle Scholar