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The Grand Tour of an Elizabethan
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 09 August 2013
Extract
English travellers in the days of the Tudors who have left behind them the story of their wanderings in the civilised lands of Europe are so few that perhaps little excuse is needed for the publication of a diary kept for Sir Edward Unton.
Unton was a gentleman of Berkshire, and traced his pedigree to Edward IV.'s time. He married in 1555 a widowed daughter of the Protector Somerset, was knighted by the Queen in 1559, and in 1574 had the honour to entertain her at his house of Wadley near Faringdon. He was Sheriff in 1567 and elected to Parliament in 1572. He died in 1583 and was buried in Faringdon Church.
His younger son, Henry, took a larger part in affairs of State. He, too, sat in Parliament, but he is chiefly remembered as Ambassador to France and friend of Henry IV., who is said to have mourned his death at the siege of La Fère in 1596. There is a curious portrait of the younger Unton in the National Portrait Gallery.
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References
page 92 note 1 Licences to travel were not lightly granted. Cf. Cecil Papers (Hist. MSS. Com.), vol. x. pp. 137, 295, 387, 412, etc.
page 93 note 1 The book was printed in 1547 by Copland and has been edited for the Early English Text Society ( Extra Series, vol. x, 1870 Google Scholar) by Furnivall. The Pylgrymage of Sir Richard Guylforde (Pynson, 1511Google Scholar; Camden Society, 1851) has only a few pages on Italy.
page 93 note 2 The printer was Berthelet. This edition was condemned and burnt. Later editions appeared in 1561 and 1562.
page 93 note 3 Camden Miscellany, vol. x. (1902)Google Scholar.
page 93 note 4 “Such a rabble of English roam now in Italy. …” Sir Thos. Chaloner to the Earl of Essex (1596–7) in Cecil Papers, vol. vii. p. 10.
page 94 note 1 Thomas, op. cit., f. 7 v. pays a high tribute to the administration of justice in Italy, and says: “I thynke no countrey more quiete than it,” but he goes on to remark, “the realme of Naples and some part of the Romaine territorie excepted, where many tymes happeneth much robbyng by the waies.”
page 94 note 2 Thomas, op. cit., f. 22 grieves to see “the onelie Jewell … of this worlde … lie so desolate and disfigured, that there is no lamentable case to be harde, or lothesome thyng to be seen, that maie be compared to a small part of it.”
page 96 note 1 Armuijen.
page 96 note 2 Bergen-op-Zoom ?.
page 97 note 1 There were similar hospitals at Venice. Cf. Thomas, Historie of Italie, f. 82 v. (Ed. 1549).
page 97 note 2 Lierre.
page 97 note 3 Iteghem ?
page 97 note 4 Diest.
page 98 note 1 Maastricht.
page 98 note 2 Hasselt.
page 98 note 3 Jülich.
page 98 note 4 Valkenburg ?
page 99 note 1 Cologne.
page 99 note 2 ?
page 99 note 3 Bonn.
page 99 note 4 Coblenz.
page 99 note 5 Sinzig ?
page 99 note 6 Nieder Breisig ?
page 99 note 7 Andernach.
page 100 note 1 Bacharach ?
page 100 note 2 Boppard ?
page 100 note 3 St. Goar ?
page 100 note 4 Königswinter.
page 100 note 5 Trier.
page 101 note 1 Mainz.
page 101 note 2 Bingen.
page 101 note 3 The Nahe.
page 101 note 4 Ingelheim.
page 102 note 1 Oppenheim.
page 102 note 2 Worms.
page 102 note 3 Speyer.
page 102 note 4 Bretten.
page 102 note 5 Bruchsal.
page 102 note 6 Vaihingen.
page 103 note 1 Esslingen.
page 103 note 2 Göppingen.
page 103 note 3 Geislingen.
page 103 note 4 Ulm.
page 103 note 5 Günzburg.
page 103 note 6 Augsburg.
page 103 note 7 Landsberg.
page 104 note 1 Baiersoyen ?
page 104 note 2 Schongau.
page 104 note 3 Mittenwald.
page 104 note 4 Partenkirchen.
page 104 note 5 Innsbruck.
page 104 note 6 Seefeld.
page 104 note 7 Matrey.
page 104 note 8 Brixen.
page 105 note 1 Sterzing.
page 105 note 2 Botzen.
page 105 note 3 Kollman.
page 105 note 4 Trent.
page 105 note 5 Neumarkt.
page 105 note 6 Borgo.
page 106 note 1 Bassano.
page 106 note 2 Primolano
page 106 note 3 Treviso.
page 106 note 4 Mestre.
page 106 note 5 The tomb of Antenor is mentioned by every traveller from Guylforde to Lassels, Voyage of Italy (1670), who dares to doubt its antiquity.
page 106 note 6 Historie of Italie.
page 107 note 1 Alfonso II. (1559–1597) was then Duke.
page 107 note 2 Firenzuola.
page 107 note 3 Scarperia. Montaigne, Voyage, ed. Lautrey, p. 185, says: “Petite villete de la Toscane, où il se vend force estuis et ciseaus, et samblable marchandise.”
page 108 note 1 S. Casciano.
page 108 note 2 Poggibonsi. “Le chemin bossu et pierreus” Montaigne op. cit. p. 198.
page 108 note 3 The famous siege of Siena was in 1554–5. During it the population fell from 40,000 to 8,000.
page 108 note 4 Buonconvento.
page 109 note 1 The Heroon, built in 307 A.D. by Maxentius in memory of his son Romulus, and converted by Felix IV. (527–530) into the portico of the Church of SS. Cosma e Damiano. Smith saw it before the restoration under Urban VIII.
page 109 note 2 Under Pius IV. Bramante's plan to unite the Belvedere with the palace was carried out. For him too Ligorio built the Casino in the garden. Cf. Soranzo, in Alberi, Le relazioni degli ambasciatori veneti, Ser. ii. vol. iv. p. 76 Google Scholar.
page 109 note 3 From the Confession of old St. Peter's.
page 110 note 1 The great obelisk from Heliopolis then stood on its ancient site. It was moved in 1586.
page 110 note 2 Borghetto. There was no bridge at this date. The Ponte Felice was begun by Sixtus V. and finished by Urban VIII.
page 110 note 3 Sigillo ?
page 110 note 4 Garifana ?
page 110 note 5 “C'est une race de boos Princes et qui sont eimés de leurs sujets.”—Montaigne, op. cit. p. 301.
page 110 note 6 ?
page 110 note 7 Cesena.
page 111 note 1 Forlimpopoli.
page 111 note 2 Forli.
page 111 note 3 S. Pietro.
page 111 note 4 Reggio.
page 111 note 5 Borgo S. Donino.
page 112 note 1 Capolago.
page 112 note 2 Bellinzona.
page 112 note 3 Airolo.
page 112 note 4 Altorf ?
page 112 note 5 ?
page 112 note 6 Teufel's Brücke. Cf. Sloane MS. 682, f. 8 v. (an anonymous account of 1610)
page 113 note 1 Strassburg.
page 113 note 2 Mainz.
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