Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-gxg78 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-25T19:43:18.801Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Your Humble Handmaid: Elizabethan Gifts of Needlework*

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 November 2018

Lisa M. Klein*
Affiliation:
Ohio State University

Extract

The Stowe inventory of the contents of the Wardrobe of Robes gives us a privileged glimpse into the closets of Queen Elizabeth in 1600. There could be found over one thousand clothing items: gowns, robes, kirtles, foreparts, petticoats, cloaks, safeguards, and doublets, plus two hundred additional pieces of material, as well as pantofles, fans, and jewelry. Many of these were gifts presented to the queen at the New Year, on progresses, at Accession Day tilts or other events. Items of embroidered clothing come to dominate the existing gift rolls. The 1588-89 New Year's gifts include, in addition to £795 in gold, almost six dozen gifts of clothing, most of them richly embroidered, plus sixteen items of jewelry, several pieces of gold- or silverplate, and a dozen gifts of embroidered furnishings.

Type
Studies
Copyright
Copyright © Renaissance Society of America 1997

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

Footnotes

*

The research for this article was undertaken with the assistance of an Ohio State University Seed Grant. I wish to thank the staff of the British Library and the Bodleian Library for their gracious assistance, Robert Reed, my resident anthropologist, and an unknown reader for Renaissance Quarterly.

References

Ames, Percy W., ed. The Mirror of the Sinful Soul [1544]. London, 1897.Google Scholar
Appadurai, Arjun. The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective. Cambridge, 1986.Google Scholar
Arnold, Janet. Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked. Leeds, 1988.Google Scholar
Ashelford, Jane. Dress in the Age of Elizabeth I. New York, 1988.Google Scholar
Bates, Catherine. The Rhetoric of Courtship in Elizabethan Language and Literature. Cambridge, 1992.Google Scholar
Blau, Peter M. Exchange and Power in Social Life. New York, 1964.Google Scholar
Bourdieu, Pierre. Outline of a Theory of Practice. Trans. Nice, Richard. Cambridge, 1979.Google Scholar
Brook, V.J.K. A Life of Archbishop Parker. Oxford, 1962.Google Scholar
Cahn, Susan. Industry of Devotion: The Transformation of Women's Work in England, 1500-1660. New York, 1987.Google Scholar
Collinson, Patrick. The Elizabethan Puritan Movement. Berkeley, 1967.Google Scholar
Crane, Mary Thomas. “‘Video et Taceo’: Elizabeth I and the Rhetoric of Counsel.” Studies in English Literature 28 (1988): 115.Google Scholar
Davenport, Cyril. English Embroidered Bookbindings. London, 1899.Google Scholar
Davis, Natalie Z.Beyond the Market: Books as Gifts in Sixteenth-Century France.” Transactions ofthe Royal Historical Society 33(1983): 6988.Google Scholar
Derrida, Jacques. Given Time: I.Counterfeit Money. Trans. Kamuf, Peggy. Chicago, 1992.Google Scholar
Digby, George Wingfield. Elizabethan Embroidery. London, 1963.Google Scholar
Dictionary of National Biography. Ed. SirStephen, Leslie and SirLee, Sidney. Oxford, 1917.Google Scholar
Duncan-Jones, Katherine. Sir Philip Sidney: Courtier Poet. New Haven, 1991.Google Scholar
Durant, David N. Bess of Hardwick: Portrait of an Elizabethan Dynast. London, 1977.Google Scholar
Firth, Raymond. Economics of the New Zealand Maori. 2d ed. Wellington, 1959.Google Scholar
Flesch, William. Generosity and the Limits of Authority: Shakespeare, Herbert, Milton. Ithaca, 1992.Google Scholar
Foucault, Michel. The History of Sexuality, Volume 1. Trans. Hurley, Robert. New York, 1980.Google Scholar
Fumerton, Patricia. “‘Secret’ Arts: Elizabethan Miniatures and Sonnets.” In Representing the English Renaissance, ed. Greenblatt, Stephen, 93133. Berkeley, 1988.Google Scholar
Fumerton, Patricia. Cultural Aesthetics: Renaissance Literature and the Practice of Social Ornament. Chicago, 1991.Google Scholar
Goldberg, Jonathan. Writing Matter: From the Hands of the English Renaissance. Stanford, 1990.Google Scholar
Greenblatt, Stephen. Shakespearean Negotiations: The Circulation of Social Energy in Renaissance England. Berkeley, 1988.Google Scholar
Guy, John. Tudor England. Oxford, 1988.Google Scholar
Harington, Sir John. Nugae Antiquae. London, 1904.Google Scholar
Haviland, William A. Cultural Anthropology. 6th ed. Fort Worth, 1990.Google Scholar
Heisch, Allison. “Queen Elizabeth I: Parliamentary Rhetoric and the Exercise of Power.” Signs 1(1975): 3155.Google Scholar
Hobbes, Thomas. Leviathan [1651]. New York, 1964.Google Scholar
Hyde, Lewis. The Gift: Imagination and the Erotic Life of Property. New York, 1983.Google Scholar
Jenkins, Elizabeth. Elizabeth the Great. New York, 1960.Google Scholar
Kenrick, A. F. English Needlework[1904]. Rev. Wardle, Patricia. London, 1967.Google Scholar
Laing, David. “Notes Relating to Mrs. Esther (Langlois or) Inglis, the Celebrated Calligraphist.” Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland 6 (1865).Google Scholar
Lamb, Mary Ellen.“The Cook Sisters: Attitudes toward Learned Women in the Renaissance.” In Silent But For the Word, ed. Hannay, Margaret P., 107-25. Kent, 1985.Google Scholar
MacCaffrey, Wallace T.Place and Patronage in Elizabethan Politics.” In Elizabethan Government and Society: Essays Presented to Sir John Neale, ed. Bindoff, S. T., et al., 96126. London, 1961.Google Scholar
Marotti, Arthur. Manuscript, Print, and the English Renaissance Lyric. Ithaca, 1995.Google Scholar
Marx, Karl. “Das Kapital.” In The Marx-Engels Reader, ed. Tucker, Robert C.. New York, 1972.Google Scholar
Mauss, Marcel. The Gift: Forms and Functions of Exchange in Archaic Societies. Trans. Cunnison, Ian. London, 1974.Google Scholar
Montrose, Louis Adrian. “‘Eliza, Queene of shepheardes,” and the Pastoral of Power.” English Literary Renaissance 10 (1980 1): 153–82.Google Scholar
Montrose, Louis Adrian.“Gifts and Reasons: The Contexts of Peele's Araygnement of Paris .” ELH 47 (1980 2): 433-61.Google Scholar
Montrose, Louis Adrian.“Of Gentlemen and Shepherds: The Politics of Elizabethan Pastoral Form.” ELH 50 (1983): 415-59.Google Scholar
Moyne, Jacques le. La Clef des Champs. London, 1588.Google Scholar
Neale, J.E. Queen Elizabeth I. Garden City, NY, 1957.Google Scholar
Newman, Karen, “Portia's Ring: Unruly Women and Structures of Exchange in The Merchant of Venice .” Shakespeare Quarterly 34(1987): 1933.Google Scholar
Nichols, John. The Progresses and Public Processions of Queen Elizabeth [1823]. 3 vols. New York, 1966.Google Scholar
Norbrook, David. Poetry and Politics in the English Renaissance. London, 1984.Google Scholar
Orgel, Stephen. The Illusion of Power: Political Theater in the English Renaissance. Berkeley, 1975.Google Scholar
Perry, Maria. The Word of a Prince: A Life of Elizabeth I from Contemporary Documents. Woodbridge, 1990.Google Scholar
Prescott, Anne Lake. “The Pearl of the Valois and Elizabeth I: Margueritede Navarre's Miroir and Tudor England.” In Silent But For the Word, ed. P.Hannay, Margaret, 6176. Kent, 1985.Google Scholar
Quentel, Peter. Ein new kunstlich Modelbuch. Cologne, 1541.Google Scholar
Rice, George P. Jr. The Public Speaking of Queen Elizabeth. New York, 1951.Google Scholar
Romano, Dennis. “Aspects of Patronage in Fifteenth- and Sixteenth-Century Venice.” Renaissance Quarterly 46 (1993): 712–31.Google Scholar
Rowland, Beryl. Animals with a Human Face: A Guide to Animal Symbolism. Knoxville, 1973.Google Scholar
Sahlins, Marshall. Stone Age Economics. New York, 1972.Google Scholar
Seneca, . The Woorke of the excellent Philosopher Lucius Annaeus Seneca, concerning Benefyting. Trans. Golding, Arthur. London, 1578.Google Scholar
Shakespeare, William. The Riverside Shakespeare. Boston, 1974.Google Scholar
Sharp, Ronald. “Gift Exchange andthe Economics of Spirit in TheMerchant of Venice .” Modem Philology 83 (1986): 250-65.Google Scholar
Shell, Marc. Elizabeth's Glass. Lincoln, 1993.Google Scholar
Sidney, Mary. Collected Works of Mary Sidney, Countess of Pembroke. Ed. Hannay, Margaret. Oxford, forthcoming.Google Scholar
Spenser, Edmund. The Works of Edmund Spenser: A Variorum Edition. Ed. Greenlaw, Edwin, et al. 11 vols. Baltimore, 1966.Google Scholar
Steen, Sara Jayne. “Fashioning an Acceptable Self: Arbella Stuart.” ELH 18 (1988): 7895.Google Scholar
Stone, Lawrence. The Crisis of the Aristocracy 1558-1641. Oxford, 1971.Google Scholar
Strong, Roy. The Cult of Elizabeth: Elizabethan Portraiture and Pageantry. London, 1977.Google Scholar
Strype, John. Life and Acts of Matthew Parker. 3 vols. 1821.Google Scholar
Swain, Margaret. The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots. New York, 1973.Google Scholar
Swain, Margaret. Embroidered Stuart Pictures. Buckinghamshire, 1990.Google Scholar
Wall, Wendy. The Imprint of Gender: Authorship and Publication in the English Renaissance. Ithaca, 1993.Google Scholar
Wallace, John M. Timon of Athens and the Three Graces: Shakespeare's Senecan Study.” Modern Philology 83 (1986): 349-63.Google Scholar
Weiner, Annette. Inalienable Possessions:The Paradox of Keeping-While-Giving. Berkeley, 1992.Google Scholar
Whigham, Frank Ambition and Privilege:The Social Tropes of Elizabethan Courtesy Theory. Berkeley, 1984.Google Scholar