Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-7cvxr Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-26T03:27:55.300Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Dairy Products and Shifts in Western Models of Food Consumption since 1950: A Spanish Perspective

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  02 September 2015

FERNANDO COLLANTES*
Affiliation:
Departamento de Estructura e Historia Económica y Economía Pública, Facultad de Economía y Empresa, Gran Vía 2, 50005 Zaragoza, Spain. collantf@unizar.es

Abstract:

Through a case study of dairy products in Spain, this article discusses the evolution of what economist Louis Malassis called ‘food consumption models’ in the West from the Second World War. Two distinct consumption models are identified: a first model based on the massification of milk consumption, and a second model featuring decreasing dairy consumption, an increasing role for second-degree processed products and the emergence of new consumer segmentations. Rather than a sudden shift from the first to the second model, there was a punctuated sequence comprising an intermediate transition period in the last two decades of the twentieth century. Using an evolutionary political economy approach, I argue that the key to this transition was a transformation in consumer preferences resulting not only from changes in nutritional discourse, but also from changes in the profit making strategies of dairy agribusinesses and from the interaction of both trajectories of structural change with consumer agency.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
Copyright © Cambridge University Press 2015 

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Amilien, V. 2007. ‘Turtle Soup and Water Porridge: Some Social and Cultural Perspectives on Food Habits in the City of Oslo, 1860–2000’, in Atkins, P. P. J., Lummel, P. and Oddy, D. J., eds, Food and the City in Europe since 1800 (Aldershot).Google Scholar
Atkins, P. J. 2010. Liquid Materialities: A History of Milk, Science and the Law (Farnham).Google Scholar
Barreiro, J. M., Losada, F. and Ruzo, E. 2001. ‘Valor de marca, calidad percibida y calidad real: un análisis comparativo del mercado de la leche’, Revista Española de Estudios Agrosociales y Pesqueros, 190.Google Scholar
Biltekoff, C. 2012. ‘Critical Nutrition Studies’, in Pilcher, J. M., ed., The Oxford Handbook of Food History (New York).Google Scholar
Briz, J., Ward, R. and de Felipe, I. 1999. ‘Análisis de la demanda y persistencia de hábitos de consumo de leche en España’, Investigación Agraria: Producción y Sanidad Animales, 14.Google Scholar
Burnett, J. 1999. Liquid Pleasures: A Social History of Drinks in Modern Britain (London).Google Scholar
Buss, D. H. 1993. ‘The British Diet since the End of Food Rationing’, in Geissler, C. and Oddy, D. J., eds, Food, Diet and Economic Change Past and Present (Leicester).Google Scholar
Carreras, A., Prados de la Escosura, L. and Rosés, J. R. 2005. ‘Renta y riqueza’, in Carreras, A. and Tafunell, X., eds, Estadísticas Históricas de España, Siglos XIX-XX (Bilbao).Google Scholar
Chiapparino, F. 1995. ‘Industrialization and Food Consumption in United Italy’, in den Hartog, A. P., ed., Food Technology, Science and Marketing: European Diet in the Twentieth Century (East Linton).Google Scholar
Claflin, K. W. and Scholliers, P. eds. 2012. Writing Food History: A Global Perspective (London).Google Scholar
Collantes, F. 2014. ‘La evolución del consumo de productos lácteos en España, 1952–2007’, Revista de Historia Industrial, 55.Google Scholar
Collantes, F. 2015a. ‘Más allá de los promedios: patrones de segmentación del consumo de productos lácteos en España, 1964–2006’, Investigaciones de Historia Económica, 11 (doi: 10.1016/j.ihe.2014.05.002).Google Scholar
Collantes, F. 2015b. ‘A la mesa con Malassis: modelos de consumo alimentario en la España contemporánea’, in Gallego, D., Germán, L. and Pinilla, V., eds, Estudios Sobre el Desarrollo Económico Español en Homenaje a Eloy Fernández Clemente (Zaragoza), forthcoming.Google Scholar
Comunidad de Madrid. 2001. ‘Hábitos de salud en adultos, 2000’, Boletín Epidemiológico de la Comunidad de Madrid, 7:8.Google Scholar
Contreras, J. and Gracia, M. 2008. ‘Preferencias y consumos alimentarios: entre el placer, la conveniencia y la salud’, in Díaz Méndez, C. and Gómez Benito, C., eds, Alimentación, Consumo y Salud (Barcelona).Google Scholar
Crawford, E. M. 1995. ‘Food Retailing, Nutrition and Health in Ireland, 1839–1989: One Hundred and Fifty Years of Eating’, in den Hartog, A. P., ed., Food Technology, Science and Marketing: European Diet in the Twentieth Century (East Linton).Google Scholar
Cussó, X. and Garrabou, R. 2009. ‘Dieta mediterránea y transición nutricional moderna en España’, in Germán, L., Hernández, R. and Moreno, J., eds, Economía Alimentaria en España durante el Siglo XX (Madrid).Google Scholar
den Hartog, A. 1992. ‘Dietary Change and Industrialization: The Making of the Modern Dutch Diet (1850–1985)’, Ecology of Food and Nutrition, 27.Google Scholar
den Hartog, A. 1998. ‘Serving the Urban Consumer: The Development of Modern Food Packaging with Special Reference to the Milk Bottle’, in Schärer, M. R. and Fenton, A., eds, Food and Material Culture (East Linton).Google Scholar
Díaz Méndez, C. and Gómez Benito, C. 2010. ‘Nutrition and the Mediterranean Diet. A Historical and Sociological Analysis of the Concept of a “healthy diet” in Spanish Society’, Food Policy, 35:5.Google Scholar
Díaz Méndez, C. and González, M. 2008. ‘Industria y alimentación: de la publicidad referencial a los alimentos funcionales’, in Díaz Méndez, C. and Gómez Benito, C., eds, Alimentación, Consumo y Salud (Barcelona).Google Scholar
DuPuis, E. M. 2002. Nature's Perfect Food: How Milk became America's Drink (New York).Google Scholar
Felice, E. 2004. ‘Il settore lattiero-caseario in Italia dal dopoguerra al Duemila’, in Bertagnoni, G., ed., Una Storia di Qualità: Il Grupo Granarolo fra Valori Etici e Logiche di Mercato (Bologna).Google Scholar
Fenton, A. 1995. ‘Milk and Milk Products in Scotland: The Role of the Milk Marketing Boards’, in den Hartog, A. P., ed., Food Technology, Science and Marketing: European Diet in the Twentieth Century (East Linton).Google Scholar
Fernández-Armesto, F. 2001. Food: A History (London).Google Scholar
Fine, B. 2002. The World of Consumption: The Material and Cultural Revisited (London).Google Scholar
Fonte, M. 2002. ‘Food Systems, Consumption Models and Risk Perception in Late Modernity’, International Journal of Sociology of Agriculture and Food, 10:1.Google Scholar
Freeman, C. and Louça, F. 2001. As Time Goes By: From the Industrial Revolutions to the Information Revolution (Oxford).Google Scholar
Freire, D. 2011. ‘ Produzir mais e melhor: Estado, agricultura y consumo alimentario en Portugal (1926–1974)’, Ayer, 83.Google Scholar
Grigg, D. 1995. ‘The Nutritional Transition in Western Europe’, Journal of Historical Geography, 22:1.Google Scholar
Hamilton, S. 2009. ‘Analyzing Commodity Chains: Linkages or Restraints?’, in Belasco, W. and Horowitz, R., eds, Food Chains: From Farmyard to Shopping Cart (Philadelphia).Google Scholar
Hernández Adell, I. 2012. ‘La difusión de un nuevo alimento: producción y consumo de leche en España, 1865–1936’, unpublished doctoral thesis, Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona.Google Scholar
Hietala, M. 1995. ‘From Famine to Welfare: Food Patterns in Finland during the Past Hundred Years’, in den Hartog, A. P., ed., Food Technology, Science and Marketing: European Diet in the Twentieth Century (East Linton).Google Scholar
Instituto Nacional de Estadística. 1959. Encuesta sobre cuentas familiares, marzo 1958 (Madrid).Google Scholar
Instituto Nacional de Estadística. 1965–69. Encuesta de presupuestos familiares (marzo 1964-marzo 1965) (Madrid).Google Scholar
Instituto Nacional de Estadística. 1983–85. Encuesta de presupuestos familiares 1980–1981 (Madrid).Google Scholar
Instituto Nacional de Estadística. 1992–95. Encuesta de presupuestos familiares 1990–91 (Madrid).Google Scholar
Kjaernes, U. 1995. ‘Milk: Nutritional Science and Agricultural Development in Norway, 1890–1990’, in den Hartog, A. P., ed., Food Technology, Science and Marketing: European Diet in the Twentieth Century (East Linton).Google Scholar
Laisney, C. 2012. ‘L'évolution de l'alimentation en France’, Centre d'Études et de Prospective Working Paper number 5.Google Scholar
Langreo, A. 1995. Historia de la Industria Láctea en España: Una Aplicación a Asturias (Madrid).Google Scholar
Langreo, A. 1997. ‘Las relaciones contractuales entre ganaderos e industrias dentro del sistema lácteo’, in Domínguez, R., ed., La Vocación Ganadera del Norte de España: Del Modelo Tradicional a los Desafíos del Mercado Mundial (Madrid).Google Scholar
Langreo, A. 2005. ‘El sistema alimentario español desde la perspectiva de los sectores productivos (I)’, Distribución y Consumo, 81.Google Scholar
Langreo, A. 2006. ‘Entre los nuevos productos, la calidad estándar y los productos de calidad diferencial. El ejemplo del sector lácteo: leche de consumo, refrigerados y quesos’, Distribución y Consumo, 85.Google Scholar
Levenstein, H. 1999. ‘The Perils of Abundance : Food, Health, and Morality in American History’, in Flandrin, J.-L. and Montanari, M., eds, Food: A Culinary History (New York).Google Scholar
Lloyd, C. 2002. ‘Regime Change in Australian Capitalism: Towards a Historical Political Economy of Regulation’, Australian Economic History Review, 42:3.Google Scholar
Magnan, A. 2012. ‘Food Regimes’, in Pilcher, J. M., ed., The Oxford Handbook of Food History (New York).Google Scholar
Malassis, L. 1997. Les Trois Âges de l'alimentaire: Essai sur une Histoire Sociale de l'alimentation et de l'agriculture (Paris).Google Scholar
Martiin, C. 2010. ‘Swedish Milk, a Swedish Duty: Dairy Marketing in the 1920s and 1930s’, Rural History, 21:2.Google Scholar
Mercasa. 2008–13. Alimentación en España (Madrid).Google Scholar
Miele, M. 2006. ‘Consumption Culture: The Case of Food’, in Cloke, P., Marsden, T. and Mooney, P. H., eds, Handbook of Rural Studies (London).Google Scholar
Ministerio de Agricultura, Alimentación y Medio Ambiente. 2013. Estudio Sobre el Mercado Extradoméstico de Alimentación. 2012 (Madrid).Google Scholar
Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación. 1988–91. Consumo Alimentario en España (Madrid).Google Scholar
Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación. 1992–2006. La Alimentación en España (Madrid).Google Scholar
Montanari, M. 1996. The Culture of Food (London).Google Scholar
Moreiras, O., Carbajal, Á., Cabrera, L. and Cuadrado, C. 2001. Tablas de Composición de Alimentos (Madrid).Google Scholar
Moser, P. and Brodbeck, B. 2007. Du Lait pour Tous: Portrait en Images, Documents et Analyses de l'économie et de la Politique Laitières en Suisse au 20e siècle (Baden).Google Scholar
Muñoz Pradas, F. 2011. ‘Consumer Populations and Nutritional Transition in Spain in the Twentieth Century: A Methodology for their Reconstruction’, Histoire & Mesure, 26:2.Google Scholar
Nelson, M. 1993. ‘Social-Class Trends in British Diet, 1860–1980’, in Geissler, C. and Oddy, D. J., eds, Food, Diet and Economic Change Past and Present (Leicester).Google Scholar
Nestle, M. 2000a. ‘The Mediterranean (Diets and Disease Prevention)’, in Kiple, K. F. and Ornelas, K. C., eds, The Cambridge World History of Food (Cambridge).Google Scholar
Nestle, M. 2000b. ‘Food Lobbies and U.S. Dietary Guidance Policy’, in Kiple and Ornelas Cambridge World History of Food.Google Scholar
Ortega, R. M., Mena, M. C. and López, A. M. 2005. ‘Leche y lácteos: valor nutricional’, in Aranceta, J. and Serra, Ll., eds, Leche, Lácteos y Salud (Madrid).Google Scholar
Patterson, K. D. 2000. ‘Lactose Intolerance’, in Kiple and Ornelas Cambridge World History of Food.Google Scholar
Pilcher, J. ed. 2012. The Oxford Handbook of Food History (New York).Google Scholar
Popkin, B. 1993. ‘Nutritional Patterns and Transitions’, Population and Development Review, 19:1.Google Scholar
Pujol, J., Nicolau, R. and Hernández, I. 2007. ‘El consumo de leche fresca en Cataluña entre mediados del siglo XIX y 1935: la difusión de un nuevo alimento’, Historia Agraria, 42.Google Scholar
REL [Revista Española de Lechería]. 1958. ‘Leche es salud’, Revista Española de Lechería, 30.Google Scholar
REL . 1960. ‘Información’, Revista Española de Lechería, 38.Google Scholar
Smith-Howard, K. 2014. Pure and Modern Milk: An Environmental History since 1900 (New York).Google Scholar
Spiekermann, U. 2009. ‘Twentieth-Century Product Innovations in the German Food Industry’, Business History Review, 83.Google Scholar
Teuteberg, H. J. 1982. ‘Food Consumption in Germany since the beginning of Industrialisation: A Quantitative Longitudinal Approach’, in Baudet, H. and van der Meulen, H., eds, Consumer Behavior and Economic Growth in the Modern Economy (London).Google Scholar
Toutain, J.-C. 1971. ‘La consommation alimentaire en France de 1789 à 1964’, Économies et Sociétés, 5:11.Google Scholar
Trescastro, E. M., Galiana, M. E., Pereyra, P., Moncho, J., Nolasco, A. y Bernabeu, J. 2014. ‘Malnutrición y desigualdades en la España del franquismo (1954–1970): el ejemplo de la población escolar en el ámbito rural’, Nutrición Hospitalaria, 29:2.Google Scholar
Valenze, D. 2011. Milk: A Local and Global History (New Haven).Google Scholar
Veblen, T. 1898. ‘Why is Economics not an Evolutionary Science?’, Quarterly Journal of Economics, 12.Google Scholar
Velten, H. 2010. Milk: A Global History (London).Google Scholar
Vivanco, F., Palacios, J. M., García, A. and López, C. 1976. Alimentación y Nutrición (Madrid).Google Scholar
Wiley, A. S. 2011. Re-Imagining Milk: Cultural and Biological Perspectives (New York).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Supplementary material: PDF

Fernando Collantes supplementary material S1

Appendix

Download Fernando Collantes supplementary material S1(PDF)
PDF 79.9 KB