3 - Hydrodynamics and Sediment Processes Applicable to Beach–Inlet Systems

Summary

Hydrodynamics and sediment processes at beach–inlet systems are dynamic and complicated. Beach–inlet systems are characteristic of mostly shallow and complicated bathymetry. As ocean waves propagate into shallow water with complex bathymetry, wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling, and breaking occur. The shallow water associated with the ebb tidal delta has significant influence on the pattern of wave propagation. Eventually in the vicinity of the shoreline and over the very shallow portions of the ebb tidal delta, waves break and generate intense turbulence that induce active sediment transport. Both wave and tide play significant roles in transporting sediments and causing morphology change at barrier–inlet systems. In general, wave-induced sediment transport dominates in areas far from the inlet where tidal currents tend to be weak. Within the deeper parts of inlet channels, tide-driven current constitutes the main mechanism for moving sediments. Over the ebb and flood tidal deltas, sediment movements are driven by both wave and current. This chapter reviews the above topics and commonly used equations on the hydrodynamics and sediment transport relevant to the beach–inlet system.