In an open channel flow, deviations to the lower topography can induce abrupt changes in the wave height, known as hydraulic jumps. This phenomenon occurs when the flow switches from subcritical to supercritical (or vice versa), and is commonly observed in rivers, flumes and weirs. Theoretical insight is typically sought through the study of reduced models such as the forced Korteweg–de Vries equation, in which previous work has predominantly focused on either stationary formulations or the initial transient behaviour caused by perturbations. In a joint theoretical and numerical study of the free-surface Euler equations, Keeler & Blyth (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 993, 2024, A9) have detected a new class of unsteady solutions to this problem. These emerge from an unstable steady solution, and feature large-amplitude time-periodic ripples emitted from a sudden decrease in the water depth forced by topography, known as a hydraulic fall.

Internal solitary waves are a widely observed phenomenon in natural waters. Mathematically, they are fundamentally a nonlinear phenomenon that differs from the paradigm of turbulence, in that energy does not move across scales. Internal solitary waves may be computed from the Dubreil–Jacotin Long equation, which is a scalar partial differential equation that is equivalent to the stratified Euler equations. When a background shear current is present the algebraic complexity of the problem increases substantially. We present an alternative point of view for characterizing the situation with a shear current using Lagrangian (particle-like) models analysed with graph theoretic methods. We find that this yields a novel, data-centric framework for analysis that could prove useful well beyond the study of internal solitary waves.

The shoreline hazard posed by ocean long waves such as tsunamis and meteotsunamis critically depends on the fraction of energy transmitted across the shallow near-shore shelf. In linear setting, bathymetric inhomogeneities of length comparable to the incident wavelength act as a protective high-pass filter, reflecting long waves and allowing only shorter waves to pass through. Here, we show that, for weakly nonlinear waves, the transmitted energy flux fraction can significantly depend on the amplitude of the incoming wave. The basis of this mechanism is the formation of dispersive shock waves (DSWs), a salient feature of nonlinear evolution of long water waves, often observed in tidal bores and tsunami/meteotsunami evolution. Within the framework of the Boussinesq equations, we show that the DSWs efficiently transfer wave energy into the high wavenumber band, where reflection is negligible. This is phenomenologically similar to self-induced transparency in nonlinear optics: small amplitude long waves are reflected by the bathymetric inhomogeneity, while larger amplitude waves that develop DSWs blueshift into the transparency regime and pass through. We investigate this mechanism in a simplified setting that retains only the key processes of DSW disintegration and reflection, while the effects such as bottom dissipation and breaking are ignored. The results suggests that the phenomenon is a robust, order-one effect. In contrast, the increased transmission due to the growth of bound harmonics associated with the steepening of the wave is weak. The results of the simplified modelling are validated by simulations with the FUNWAVE-TVD Boussinesq model.

In this paper, a high-level Green–Naghdi (HLGN) model for large-amplitude internal waves in a two-layer fluid system, where the upper-fluid layer is of finite depth and the lower-fluid layer is of infinite depth, is developed under the rigid-lid free-surface approximation. The equations of the present HLGN model follow Euler's equations under the sole assumption that the horizontal and vertical velocity distributions along the vertical column are presented by known shape functions for each layer. The linear dispersion relations of the HLGN model for different levels are presented and compared with those obtained by other strongly nonlinear models for deep water, including the fully nonlinear models that include the dispersion effects $O(\mu )$ (where $\mu$ is the ratio of the upper-fluid layer depth to a typical wavelength) derived by Choi & Camassa (Phys. Rev. Lett., vol. 77, 1996, pp. 1759–1762) and $O(\mu ^2)$ derived by Debsarma et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 654, 2010, pp. 281–303). It is shown that the HLGN model has a wider application range than other models. Solutions of travelling large-amplitude internal solitary waves in the absence and presence of background shear-current are then investigated by using the HLGN model. For the no-current cases, results obtained by the HLGN model show better agreement with Euler's solution on wave profile, velocity profile at the maximum interface displacement and wave speed compared with those obtained by other models. For the background shear-current cases, results obtained by the HLGN model also show good agreement with those obtained by solving the Dubreil-Jacotin–Long equation.

We study the effect of a confined turbulent counter-current gas flow on the waviness of a weakly inclined falling liquid film. Our study is centred on experiments in a channel of 13 mm height, using water and air, where we have successively increased the counter-current gas flow rate until flooding. Computations with a new low-dimensional model and linear stability calculations are used to elucidate the linear and nonlinear wave dynamics. We find that the gas pressure gradient plays an important role in countering the stabilizing effect of the tangential gas shear stress at the liquid–gas interface. At very low inclination angles, the latter effect dominates and can suppress the long-wave Kapitza instability unconditionally. By contrast, for non-negligible inclination, the gas effect is linearly destabilizing, amplifies the height of nonlinear Kapitza waves, and exacerbates coalescence-induced formation of large-amplitude tsunami waves. Kapitza waves do not undergo any catastrophic transformation when the counter-current gas flow rate is increased beyond the absolute instability (AI) limit. On the contrary, we find that AI is an effective linear wave selection mechanism in a noise-driven wave evolution scenario, leading to highly regular downward-travelling nonlinear wave trains, which preclude coalescence events. In our experiments, where Kapitza waves develop in a protected region before coming into contact with the gas, flooding is eventually caused far beyond the AI limit by upward-travelling short-wave ripples. Based on our linear stability calculations for arbitrary wavenumbers, we have uncovered a new short-wave interfacial instability mode with negative linear wave speed, causing these ripples.

The strongly nonlinear Miyata–Choi–Camassa model under the rigid lid approximation (MCC-RL model) can describe accurately the dynamics of large-amplitude internal waves in a two-layer fluid system for shallow configurations. In this paper, we apply the MCC-RL model to study the internal waves generated by a moving body on the bottom. For the case of the moving body speed $U=1.1c_{0}$, where ${c_0}$ is the linear long-wave speed, the accuracy of the MCC-RL results is assessed by comparing with Euler's solutions, and very good agreement is observed. It is found that when the moving body speed increases from $U=0.8c_{0}$ to $U=1.241c_{0}$, the amplitudes of the generated internal solitary waves in front of the moving body become larger. However, a critical moving body speed is found between $U=1.241c_{0}$ and $U=1.242c_{0}$. After exceeding this critical speed, only one internal wave right above the body is generated. When the moving body speed increases from $U=1.242c_{0}$ to $U=1.5c_{0}$, the amplitudes of the internal waves become smaller.

Numerical simulations of the interaction of internal solitary waves (ISWs) of opposite polarity are conducted by solving the incompressible Euler equations under the Boussinesq approximation. A double-pycnocline stratification is used. A method to determine when ISWs of both polarities exist is also presented. The simulations confirm previous work that the interaction of waves of the same polarity are soliton-like; however, here it is shown that when a fast ISW with the same polarity as a Korteweg–de Vries (KdV) solitary wave catches up and interacts with a slower ISW of opposite polarity, the interaction can be far from soliton-like. The energy in the fast KdV-polarity wave can increase by more than a factor of 5 while the energy in the slower negative-KdV-polarity wave can decrease by 50 %. Large trailing wave trains may be generated and in some cases multiple ISWs with KdV polarity may be formed by the interaction.

The shape of depth-limited breaking-wave overturns is important for turbulence injection, bubble entrainment and sediment suspension. Overturning wave shape depends on a nonlinearity parameter $H/h$, where $H$ is the wave height, and $h$ is the water depth. Cross-shore wind direction (offshore/onshore) and magnitude affect laboratory shoaling wave shape and breakpoint location $X_{{bp}}$, but wind effects on overturning wave shape are largely unstudied. We perform field-scale experiments at the Surf Ranch wave basin with fixed bathymetry and $\approx 2.25$ m shoaling solitons with small height variations propagating at $C=6.7\ \mathrm {m}\ \mathrm {s}^{-1}$. Observed non-dimensional cross-wave wind $U_w$ was onshore and offshore, varying realistically ($-1.2 < U_{w}/C < 0.7$). Georectified images, a wave staff, and lidar are used to estimate $X_{{bp}}$, $H/h$, overturn area $A$ and aspect ratio for 22 waves. The non-dimensionalized $X_{{bp}}$ was inversely related to $U_{w}/C$. The non-dimensional overturn area and aspect ratio also were inversely related to $U_{w}/C$, with smaller and narrower overturns for increasing onshore wind. No overturning shape dependence on the weakly varying $H/h$ was seen. The overturning shape variation was as large as prior laboratory experiments with strong $H/h$ variations without wind. An idealized potential air flow simulation on steep shoaling soliton shape has strong surface pressure variations, potentially inducing overturning shape changes. Through wave-overturning impacts on turbulence and sediment suspension, coastal wind variations could be relevant for near-shore morphology.

Experiments are conducted in water films falling along the bottom wall of a weakly inclined rectangular channel of height $5$ mm in the presence of a laminar counter-current air flow. Boundary conditions have been specifically designed to avoid flooding at the liquid outlet, thus allowing us to focus on the wave dynamics in the core of the channel. Surface waves are excited via coherent inlet forcing before they come into contact with the air flow. The effect of the air flow on the height, shape and speed of two-dimensional travelling nonlinear waves is investigated and contrasted with experiments of Kofman, Mergui & Ruyer-Quil (Intl J. Multiphase Flow, vol. 95, 2017, pp. 22–34), which were performed in a weakly confined channel. We observe a striking difference between these two cases. In our strongly confined configuration, a monotonic stabilizing effect or a non-monotonic trend (i.e. the wave height first increases and then diminishes upon increasing the gas flow rate) is observed, in contrast to the weakly confined configuration where the gas flow is always destabilizing. This stabilizing effect implies the possibility of attenuating waves via the gas flow and it confirms recent numerical results obtained by Lavalle et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 919, 2021, R2) in a superconfined channel.

In this paper, we investigate mode-2 solitary waves in a three-layer stratified flow model. Localised travelling wave solutions to both the fully nonlinear problem (Euler equations), and the three-layer Miyata–Choi–Camassa equations are found numerically and compared. Mode-2 solitary waves with speeds slower than the linear mode-1 long-wave speed are typically generalised solitary waves with infinite tails consisting of a resonant mode-1 periodic wave train. Herein, we evidence the existence of mode-2 embedded solitary waves, that is, we show that for specific values of the parameters, the amplitude of the oscillations in the tail are zero. For sufficiently thick middle layers, we also find branches of mode-2 solitary waves with speeds that extend beyond the mode-1 linear waves and are no longer embedded. In addition, we show how large amplitude embedded solitary waves are intimately linked to the conjugate states of the problem.

A strongly nonlinear long-wave approximation is adopted to obtain a high-order model for large-amplitude long internal waves in a two-layer system by assuming the water depth is much smaller than the typical wavelength. When truncated at the first order, the model can be reduced to the regularized strongly nonlinear model of Choi et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 629, 2009, pp. 73–85), which lessens the Kelvin–Helmholtz instability excited by the tangential velocity jump across the interface in the inviscid Miyata–Choi–Camassa (MCC) equations. Using the second-order model, the next-order correction to the internal solitary wave solution of the MCC equations is found and its validity is examined with the Euler solution in terms of the wave profile, the effective wavelength and the velocity profile. It is shown that the correction greatly improves the comparison with the Euler solution for the whole range of wave amplitudes and no further correction is necessary for practical applications. Based on a local stability analysis, the region of stability for the second-order long-wave model is identified in the physical parameter space so that the efficient numerical scheme developed for the first-order model can be used for the second-order model.

A new two-equation model for gravity-driven liquid film flow based on the long-wave expansion has been derived. The novelty of the model consists in using a base velocity profile combining parabolic (Ruyer-Quil & Manneville, Eur. Phys. J. B, vol. 15, issue 2, 2000, pp. 357–369) and ellipse (Usha et al., Phys. Fluids, vol. 32, issue 1, 2020, 013603) profile functions in the wall-normal coordinate. The dependence on a free parameter $A$ related to the eccentricity of an ellipse serves as an adjustable parameter. The resulting models are consistent at $O(\varepsilon )$ for inertia terms and at $O(\varepsilon ^2)$ for viscous diffusion effects, and predict accurately the primary instability. Appropriate tuning of the adjustable parameter helps to recover accurate predictions for the asymptotic wave celerity of nonlinear solitary waves. Further, the model is shown to capture the closed separation vortices that can form underneath the troughs of precursory capillary ripples.

In non-uniform stratification, horizontally propagating internal waves with the vertical structure of a single mode self-interact to excite superharmonics. Baker & Sutherland (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 891, 2020, R1) showed that a vertical mode-1 parent wave of sufficiently small amplitude dominantly excites a vertical mode-1 superharmonic with double the horizontal wavenumber. Through theory, assuming a parent wave of sufficiently small amplitude, they showed that the superharmonics grew and decayed periodically due to the parent forcing frequency being off-resonant with the natural frequency of the superharmonic. Here, we extend this theory to allow for larger parent wave amplitudes and/or stronger resonant forcing, as would occur at lower latitudes, where the influence of background rotation is small. The resulting coupled system of nonlinear ordinary differential equations is shown to well predict the evolution of the internal tide as determined in fully nonlinear numerical simulations. With strong nonlinear forcing, successive superharmonics grow to non-negligible amplitudes in what we call the ‘superharmonic cascade’. The phase relationship between the superharmonics is such that when superimposed, the internal tide transforms into a solitary wave train, consistent with the predictions of well-established shallow-water models, particularly that of the Ostrovsky equation, which is an extension of the Korteweg–de Vries equation accounting for background rotation. This work thus gives new insight into internal solitary wave generation. The model equations have less restrictive assumptions than models based upon shallow-water theory, and because they are quickly solved, these provide a potentially powerful new tool to examine the nonlinear evolution of the internal tide.

We consider high-order strongly nonlinear long wave models expanded in a single small parameter measuring the ratio of the water depth to the characteristic wavelength. By examining its dispersion relation, the high-order system for the bottom velocity is found stable to all disturbances at any order of approximation. On the other hand, systems for other velocities can be unstable and even ill-posed, as signified by the unbounded maximum growth. Under the steady assumption, a new third-order solitary wave solution of the Euler equations is obtained using the high-order strongly nonlinear system and is expanded in an amplitude parameter, which is different from that used in weakly nonlinear theory. The third-order solution is shown to well describe various physical quantities induced by a finite-amplitude solitary wave, including the wave profile, horizontal velocity profile, particle velocity at the crest and bottom pressure. For numerical computations, the first- and second-order strongly nonlinear systems for the bottom velocity are considered. It is shown that finite difference schemes are unstable due to truncation errors introduced in approximating high-order spatial derivatives and, therefore, a more accurate spatial discretization scheme is necessary. Using a pseudo-spectral method based on finite Fourier series combined with an iterative scheme for the inversion of a non-local operator, the strongly nonlinear systems are solved numerically for the propagation of a single solitary wave and the head-on collision of two counter-propagating solitary waves of finite amplitudes, and the results are compared with previous laboratory measurements.

Interfacial waves between two superimposed dielectric fluid layers under a horizontal electric field are investigated from asymptotic and numerical aspects. The fluid is taken to be inviscid, incompressible and non-conducting in each layer. The competing forces resulting from gravity, surface tension and electric field are all considered. A systematic procedure is proposed to derive model equations of multiple scales in various possible limits from the electrified Euler equations in the framework of the Zakharov–Craig–Sulem formulation. Based on thorough analyses of the Dirichlet–Neumann operators in the long-wave approximation, classic weakly nonlinear models – including the Boussinesq-type system, the Korteweg–de Vries (KdV) equation and its variants, and the Benjamin-type equation – are obtained under different scaling assumptions. In addition, strongly nonlinear models (without the smallness assumption on the wave amplitude) in the Benjamin and Barannyk–Papageorgiou–Petropoulos regimes are derived. In these models, the electric effects are shown to produce dispersive regularisations of long and short waves. A modified boundary integral equation method is developed to compute solitary waves in the original electrified Euler equations. Through comparisons with solitary-wave solutions in the Euler equations, it is found that in various asymptotic regimes, weakly nonlinear models are in overall good agreement when wave amplitudes are small. In contrast, the range of validity of the strongly nonlinear model is much broader. It is shown that the horizontal electric field plays a significant role in the physical system: it expands the range of parameters for the existence of progressive waves, changes the qualitative characteristics of solitary waves and leads to a new type of solitary wave, namely the KdV–wavepacket mixed type.

An analytical solution is developed for studying transient water wave-induced responses inside an unsaturated poroelastic seabed of finite thickness. The soil skeleton and the pore fluid are compressible and the constitutive relationship of the soil skeleton is described by Hooke's law. Assuming that the horizontal length scale of wave motion is much larger than the seabed thickness, the leading-order analytical solutions for the seabed responses, including pore fluid pressure and soil skeleton motion, are obtained. The present solutions are suitable for general transient wave loading and for the shear modulus of the soil skeleton being of the same order of magnitude as the effective bulk modulus of elasticity of the pore fluid. The present theory is first validated by checking the solutions with the experimental data for the pore pressure induced by periodic-wave loading. The present analytical solutions are then used to investigate the seabed responses under transient waves, including linear periodic wave, a solitary wave and a bore. The effects of the wave-induced effective stresses on the bed failure potential are further analysed. The results show that the shear failure potential and its duration are highly dependent on the soil properties, such as saturation degree, shear modulus and permeability. Sensitivity analyses are presented.

The depth-integrated wave–current models developed by Yang & Liu (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 883, 2020, A4) are extended to investigate currents with an arbitrary vertical profile in the water column. In the present models, horizontal velocities are decomposed into two components. The first part deduces the prescribed current velocity when waves are absent. The second part is approximated in a polynomial form. The resulting depth-integrated wave–current models are obtained by applying the weighted residual method. In the absence of currents, the present models are identical to those in Yang & Liu (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 883, 2020, A4) and are validated with several three-dimensional (3D) benchmark laboratory experiments. A theoretical analysis is conducted to study the frequency dispersion relation of linear waves on currents with an exponential vertical profile and the results are compared with numerical solutions of the Rayleigh equation. Using the new models, validations and investigations are then conducted for periodic waves and solitary waves on currents with an arbitrary profile in one-dimensional horizontal (1DH) space. Furthermore, the new models are applied to wave–current interactions in two-dimensional horizontal (2DH) space. Two scenarios are considered: (1) wave propagation over a vortex-ring-like current and (2) obliquely incident wave propagation over a 3D sheared current on a varying bathymetry. The vertical and horizontal shear of the current have significant effects on modifying various wave properties, which are well captured by the present models. However, the time-averaged velocity under wave–current interaction shows small differences with the prescribed current velocity, except in the region between the wave trough and crest.

In the context of three-dimensional oceanic internal waves, taking topographic effects into account, a modified Benney–Luke equation is proposed for describing internal wave–wave interactions on a sloping bottom. The derived equation is characterised by isotropy and bi-directional propagation, which are absent in the widely used Kadomtsev–Petviashvili equation. Indeed, these disparities are confirmed by numerical results of the diffraction of a truncated internal solitary wave and the evolution of a partially bent solitary wave. However, a good agreement between the numerical results of the modified Benney–Luke equation and those of the primitive equations confirms the validity of our simplified model. Because the stratification in a realistic ocean environment is usually continuous, in contrast to the assumption of a sharp density discontinuity used here, to maintain the kinematical equivalence, a layering scheme for determining the density and thickness of each layer from a continuous stratification is proposed. In addition, the occasionally observed but rarely examined X-shaped internal wave–wave interactions are shown to feature novel wave patterns, where topographic effects modulate the propagation speed, amplitude and waveform.

The interaction of localised solitary waves with large-scale, time-varying dispersive mean flows subject to non-convex flux is studied in the framework of the modified Korteweg–de Vries (mKdV) equation, a canonical model for internal gravity wave propagation and potential vorticity fronts in stratified fluids. The effect of large amplitude, dynamically evolving mean flows on the propagation of localised waves – essentially ‘soliton steering’ by the mean flow – is considered. A recent theoretical and experimental study of this new type of dynamic soliton–mean flow interaction for convex flux has revealed two scenarios where the soliton either transmits through the varying mean flow or remains trapped inside it. In this paper, it is demonstrated that the presence of a non-convex cubic hydrodynamic flux introduces significant modifications to the scenarios for transmission and trapping. A reduced set of Whitham modulation equations is used to formulate a general mathematical framework for soliton–mean flow interaction with non-convex flux. Solitary wave trapping is stated in terms of crossing modulation characteristics. Non-convexity and positive dispersion – common for stratified fluids – imply the existence of localised, sharp transition fronts (kinks). Kinks play dual roles as a mean flow and a wave, imparting polarity reversal to solitons and dispersive mean flows, respectively. Numerical simulations of the mKdV equation agree with modulation theory predictions. The mathematical framework developed is general, not restricted to completely integrable equations like mKdV, enabling application beyond the mKdV setting to other fluid dynamic contexts subject to non-convex flux such as strongly nonlinear internal wave propagation that is prevalent in the ocean.

Gravity–capillary waves propagating along extended liquid cylinders in the inviscid limit are studied in the context of experiments on sessile cylinders deposited upon superhydrophobic substrates, with tunable geometries. In Part 1 of this work (Pham et al., J. Fluid Mech., vol. 891, 2020, A5), we characterised the non-dispersive regime of the varicose waves. In this second part, we characterise the varicose waves in the dispersive regime, as well as the sinuous and the sloshing modes. We numerically study the shape function of the system (the counterpart of the standard $\tanh$ function of the dispersion relation of a gravity–capillary wave in a rectangular channel) and the cutoff frequencies of the sloshing modes, and show how they depend on the geometry of the substrate. A reduced-gravity effect is evidenced and the transition between a capillary- and a gravity-dominated regime is expressed in terms of an effective Bond number and an effective surface tension. Semiquantitative agreement is found between the theoretical computations and the experiments. As a consequence of these results, resorting to the inviscid section-averaged Saint-Venant equations, we propose a Korteweg–de Vries equation with adapted coefficients that governs the propagation of localised nonlinear waves. We relate these results to the propagation of depression solitons observed in our experimental set-up and along Leidenfrost cylinders levitating above a hot substrate (Perrard et al., Phys. Rev. E, vol. 92, 2015, 011002(R)). We extend our derivation of the Korteweg–de Vries equation to solitary-like waves propagating along Plateau borders in soap films, evidenced by Argentina et al. (J. Fluid. Mech., vol. 765, 2015, pp. 1–16).