Wave-dominated sandy beaches are highly valued by societies and are amongst the world’s most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited sand supply and limited influence of tide and geology, beach change has long been conceptualised in the morphodynamic framework of Wright and Short (1984). Such framework describes the occurrence of beach types based on wave conditions and sediment characteristics across the complete reflective–dissipative spectrum. Building on theoretical work, field/laboratory measurements and monitoring programmes, the physical mechanisms underpinning this morphodynamic framework have been progressively unravelled. Cross-shore morphological changes are primarily controlled by equilibrium and beach memory principles with below (above) average wave conditions driving down-state (up-state) transitions associated with onshore (offshore) sediment transport. Such cross-shore behaviour mostly reflects the imbalance between the onshore-directed sediment transport driven by wave nonlinearities and the offshore-directed sediment transport driven by the undertow. Self-organised morphological instabilities resulting from different positive feedback mechanisms are primarily responsible for alongshore morphological variability and the generation of rhythmic morphological features, such as crescentic bars, rip channels and beach cusps. Critically, wave climate and changes in wave regimes are key in driving the coupled cross-shore and longshore behaviour that ultimately explains modal beach state and frequency-response characteristics of beach morphological time series.
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Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches
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- 23 August 2022, e1
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Fires, floods and other extreme events – How watershed processes under climate change will shape our coastlines
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- 08 September 2022, e2
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The role of macroalgae as nursery areas for fish species within coastal seascapes
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- 10 October 2022, e3
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Tropical cyclone-induced coastal sea level projection and the adaptation to a changing climate
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- 18 November 2022, e4
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Impacts of tourism on coastal areas
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- 14 November 2022, e5
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The unique value proposition for using drones to map coastal ecosystems
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- 12 December 2022, e6
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The evolution of 21st century sea-level projections from IPCC AR5 to AR6 and beyond
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- 12 December 2022, e7
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What can long-term in situ monitoring data tell us about our coastlines?
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- 06 January 2023, e8
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Editorial
Introducing Cambridge Prisms: Coastal Futures
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- 23 December 2022, e9
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The future of coastal monitoring through satellite remote sensing
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- 28 November 2022, e10
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Coastal urban reliance on groundwater during drought cycles: Opportunities, threats and state of knowledge
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- 05 January 2023, e11
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A decade of ‘blue tourism’ sustainability research: Exploring the impact of cruise tourism on coastal areas
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- 19 January 2023, e12
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Drivers of change in Arctic fjord socio-ecological systems: Examples from the European Arctic
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- 13 January 2023, e13
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Population development as a driver of coastal risk: Current trends and future pathways
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- 31 January 2023, e14
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Overview Review
Blue justice: A review of emerging scholarship and resistance movements
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- 26 January 2023, e15
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Shoreline modelling on timescales of days to decades
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- 01 February 2023, e16
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Eco-creative nature-based solutions to transform urban coastlines, local coastal communities and enhance biodiversity through the lens of scientific and Indigenous knowledge
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- 22 December 2022, e17
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Advances in cumulative effects assessment and application in marine and coastal management
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- 14 February 2023, e18
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Persistent eutrophication and hypoxia in the coastal ocean
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- 23 February 2023, e19
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Human–coastal coupled systems: Ten questions
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- 13 March 2023, e20
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