The slamming wave force and pressure variabilities for monopile wave impacts are studied as functions of wave breaking shape and transverse perturbations on the breaking wave front. The impacting wave topology is characterized as slosh, flip-through, $\varOmega$, overturning and fully broken. Fifty test repetitions are conducted for each type of wave impact to assess the variability of force impulse, force and pressure. The results for the unperturbed cases show that the slamming force is highest among the nominal slosh, flip-through and $\varOmega$ tests, and that the slamming force variability is highest for the first two. We demonstrate that the slamming force and pressure variabilities decrease notably after selecting and regrouping the tests by similar crest heights and temporal slopes measured at an upstream wave gauge. The group representing $\varOmega$ wave impacts shows the largest mean slamming force and peak pressure, and their variability is the highest among all groups. Further, the effect of lateral perturbations on the pressure, force and impulse variabilities is investigated. Due to the perturbations, the slamming pressure variability for the wave impacts in which the wave front hits the monopile surface increases significantly. The variability of the slamming force is also increased for the perturbed impacts; however, it is smaller than the slamming pressure variability. The force impulse variability shows a low sensitivity to perturbations, and its magnitude is smaller than that of the force variability. Finally, the slamming pressure using fifteen pressure sensors for five selected events is studied. For these tests, oscillations at frequencies associated with structural or bubble oscillations are seen. Further, the air entertainment is documented through video recordings.

We introduce a numerical strategy to study the evolution of two-dimensional water waves in the presence of a plunging jet. The free-surface Navier–Stokes solution is obtained with a finite, but small, viscosity. We observe the formation of a surface boundary layer where the vorticity is localised. We highlight convergence to the inviscid solution. The effects of dissipation on the development of a singularity at the tip of the wave is also investigated by characterising the vorticity boundary layer appearing near the interface.

A Lagrangian approach to both hydrostatic non-dispersive in the short-wave range and non-hydrostatic dispersive rotating shallow-water magnetohydrodynamics is developed, and used to analyse weakly and fully nonlinear waves described by the model. Hyperbolic structure in the non-dispersive case is displayed and Riemann invariants are constructed. Characteristic equations are used to establish criteria of breaking and formation of shocks by magneto-gravity waves, and conditions of the appearance of contact discontinuities in Alfvén waves. As in the case of non-magnetic rotating shallow water, rotation cannot prevent breaking. The Lagrangian equations of the model are reduced to a single partial differential ‘master’ equation, which is used to analyse the propagation of weakly nonlinear waves of both families, with or without weak rotation, and with or without weak short-wave dispersion. Corresponding modulation equations are constructed and their main properties sketched. The same master equation is used to obtain fully nonlinear finite-amplitude wave solutions in particular cases of no short-wave dispersion or no rotation.

A depth-averaged model for turbulent open-channel flows with breaking roll waves on a sloping smooth bottom is derived under an assumption of independence between the wall turbulence and the roller turbulence. The model includes four variables – the water depth, the average velocity, and two variables called enstrophy, the shear enstrophy and the roller enstrophy – which take into account the deviations of the velocity with respect to its depth-averaged value due to shear effect and roller turbulence, respectively. The four equations of the model are the mass, momentum, energy and shear enstrophy balance equations, with the mathematical structure of the Euler equations of compressible fluids, with an additional transport equation and with source terms. The system is hyperbolic. The roller enstrophy is created by shocks. A non-zero value of the roller enstrophy indicates a breaking wave and a turbulent roller. The model is solved by a fast and well-known numerical scheme, with an explicit finite-volume method in one step. The model is used to simulate periodic and natural roll waves with a good agreement with existing experimental results. There is no parameter to calibrate in the model, which gives it a predictive character.

The present study focuses on two-dimensional direct numerical simulations of shallow-water breaking waves, specifically those generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The primary objective is to quantitatively analyse the dynamics, kinematics and energy dissipation associated with wave breaking. The numerical results exhibit good agreement with experimental data in terms of free-surface profiles during wave breaking. A parametric study was conducted to examine the influence of various wave properties and initial conditions on breaking characteristics. According to research on the Bond number ($Bo$, the ratio of gravitational to surface tension forces), an increased surface tension leads to the formation of more prominent parasitic capillaries at the forwards face of the wave profile and a thicker plunging jet, which causes a delayed breaking time and is tightly correlated with the main cavity size. A close relationship between wave statistics and the initial conditions of the wave plate is discovered, allowing for the classification of breaker types based on the ratio of wave height to water depth, $H/d$. Moreover, an analysis based on inertial scaling arguments reveals that the energy dissipation rate due to breaking can be linked to the local geometry of the breaking crest $H_b/d$, and exhibits a threshold behaviour, where the energy dissipation approaches zero at a critical value of $H_b/d$. An empirical scaling of the breaking parameter is proposed as $b = a(H_b/d - \chi _0)^n$, where $\chi _0 = 0.65$ represents the breaking threshold and $n = 1.5$ is a power law determined through the best fit to the numerical results.

Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form unforced steep waves, i.e. nonlinearity or dispersion, are thought to have a strong influence on the onset of wave breaking. In two dimensions and in deep water, spectral bandwidth is the main factor that affects the roles these mechanism play. Existing studies, in which the relationship between spectral bandwidth and wave breaking onset is investigated, present varied and sometimes conflicting results. We perform potential-flow simulations of two-dimensional focused wave groups on deep water to better understand this relationship, with the aim of reconciling existing studies. We show that the way in which steepness is defined may be the main source of confusion in the literature. Locally defined steepness at breaking onset reduces as a function of bandwidth, and globally defined (spectral) steepness increases. The relationship between global breaking onset steepness and spectral shape (using the parameters bandwidth and spectral skewness) is too complex to parameterise in a general way. However, we find that the local surface slope of maximally steep non-breaking waves, of all spectral bandwidths and shapes that we simulate, approaches a limit of $1/\tan ({\rm \pi} /3)\approx 0.5774$. This slope-based threshold is simple to measure and may be used as an alternative to existing kinematic breaking onset thresholds. There is a potential link between slope-based and kinematic breaking onset thresholds, which future work should seek to better understand.

For turbulent bubbly flows, multi-phase simulations resolving both the liquid and bubbles are prohibitively expensive in the context of different natural phenomena. One example is breaking waves, where bubbles strongly influence wave impact loads, acoustic emissions and atmospheric-ocean transfer, but detailed simulations in all but the simplest settings are infeasible. An alternative approach is to resolve only large scales, and model small-scale bubbles adopting sub-resolution closures. Here, we introduce a large eddy simulation smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) scheme for simulations of bubbly flows. The continuous liquid phase is resolved with a semi-implicit isothermally compressible SPH framework. This is coupled with a discrete Lagrangian bubble model. Bubbles and liquid interact via exchanges of volume and momentum, through turbulent closures, bubble breakup and entrainment, and free-surface interaction models. By representing bubbles as individual particles, they can be tracked over their lifetimes, allowing closure models for sub-resolution fluctuations, bubble deformation, breakup and free-surface interaction in integral form, accounting for the finite time scales over which these events occur. We investigate two flows: bubble plumes and breaking waves, and find close quantitative agreement with published experimental and numerical data. In particular, for plunging breaking waves, our framework accurately predicts the Hinze scale, bubble size distribution, and growth rate of the entrained bubble population. This is the first coupling of an SPH framework with a discrete bubble model, with potential for cost-effective simulations of wave–structure interactions and more accurate predictions of wave impact loads.

The effects of surfactants on a mechanically generated plunging breaker are studied experimentally in a laboratory wave tank. Waves are generated using a dispersively focused wave packet with a characteristic wavelength of $\lambda _0 = 1.18$ m. Experiments are performed with two sets of surfactant solutions. In the first set, increasing amounts of the soluble surfactant Triton X-100 are mixed into the tank water, while in the second set filtered tap water is left undisturbed in the tank for wait times ranging from 15 min to 21 h. Increasing Triton X-100 concentrations and longer wait times lead to surfactant-induced changes in the dynamic properties of the free surface in the tank. It is found that low surface concentrations of surfactants can dramatically change the wave breaking process by changing the shape of the jet and breaking up the entrained air cavity at the time of jet impact. Direct numerical simulations (DNS) of plunging breakers with constant surface tension are used to show that there is significant compression of the free surface near the plunging jet tip and dilatation elsewhere. To explore the effect of this compression/dilatation, the surface tension isotherm is measured in all experimental cases. The effects of surfactants on the plunging jet are shown to be primarily controlled by the surface tension gradient ($\Delta \mathcal {E}$) while the ambient surface tension of the undisturbed wave tank ($\sigma _0$) plays a secondary role.

An experimental investigation of two-dimensional dispersively focused laboratory breaking waves is presented. We describe the bandwidth effect on breaking wave energetics, including spectral energy evolution, characteristic group velocity, energy dissipation and its rate, and breaking strength parameter, $b$. To evaluate the role of bandwidth, three definitions of wave group steepness are adopted where $S_s$ and $S_n$ are bandwidth-dependent and $S_p$ remains constant when bandwidth is changed. Our data show two regimes of spectral energy evolution in breaking wave groups, with both regimes bandwidth-dependent: energy dissipation and gain occur at $f > 0.95f_p$ ($f_p$ is the peak frequency) and $f < 0.95f_p$, respectively. The characteristic group velocity, which is used in energy dissipation calculations, increases by up to 7 % after wave breaking, being larger for higher bandwidth breaking waves. An unambiguous bandwidth dependence is found between $S_p$ and both the fractional and absolute wave energy dissipation. Wave groups of larger bandwidth break at a lower value of $S_p$ and consequently lose relatively more energy. The energy dissipation rate depends on the breaking duration which itself is bandwidth dependent. Consequently, no clear bandwidth effect is observed in energy dissipation rate when compared with either $S_p$ or $S_s$. However, there is a systematic bandwidth dependence in the variation of $b$ when parameterised in terms of $S_p$, with their relationship becoming increasingly nonlinear as bandwidth increases. When parameterised with $S_s$, $b$ shows a markedly reduced bandwidth dependence. Finally, the numerical breaking onset and relationship between $b$ and $S_s$ in the numerical study of Derakhti & Kirby (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 790, 2016, pp. 553–581) is validated experimentally.

The statistics of breaking wave fields are characterised within a novel multi-layer framework, which generalises the single-layer Saint-Venant system into a multi-layer and non-hydrostatic formulation of the Navier–Stokes equations. We simulate an ensemble of phase-resolved surface wave fields in physical space, where strong nonlinearities, including directional wave breaking and the subsequent highly rotational flow motion, are modelled, without surface overturning. We extract the kinematics of wave breaking by identifying breaking fronts and their speed, for freely evolving wave fields initialised with typical wind wave spectra. The $\varLambda (c)$ distribution, defined as the length of breaking fronts (per unit area) moving with speed $c$ to $c+{\rm d}c$ following Phillips (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 156, 1985, pp. 505–531), is reported for a broad range of conditions. We recover the $\varLambda (c) \propto c^{-6}$ scaling without wind forcing for sufficiently steep wave fields. A scaling of $\varLambda (c)$ based solely on the root-mean-square slope and peak wave phase speed is shown to describe the modelled breaking distributions well. The modelled breaking distributions are in good agreement with field measurements and the proposed scaling can be applied successfully to the observational data sets. The present work paves the way for simulations of the turbulent upper ocean directly coupled to a realistic breaking wave dynamics, including Langmuir turbulence, and other sub-mesoscale processes.

Six consecutive solitary waves with identical wave height and separation time are generated to study the flow structures during the uprush–downwash interactions in the swash zone. Using particle image velocimetry, the cross-shore velocity fields are captured. Two different wave conditions are examined with different wave-height-to-water-depth ratios, i.e. $H_o/h=0.11$ and 0.22. The uprush–downwash interaction reaches quasi-steady state from the third solitary wave for both cases. For the former case, a weak non-stationary hydraulic jump appears during the downwash flow for all the six consecutive waves. The weak hydraulic jump evolves into a momentarily ‘stationary’ broken bore when the next wave arrives. For the latter case, the larger wave height generates stronger wave breaking. No non-stationary hydraulic jump is observed as the duration of downwash flow is relatively short. The flow reverses to the onshore direction before the downwash Froude number reaches the hydraulic jump condition. The temporal and spatial evolution of turbulence structure at the quasi-steady state is quantified using the spatial spectral analysis, the integral length scale and turbulence eddy viscosity. The results suggest that the large-scale energy generated during the uprush–downwash interaction modified the slope of the turbulence energy spatial spectrum in the inertial subrange from $-$5/3 to $-$1 in the larger length scale region, indicating the energy cascade depends not only on the dissipation rate, but also on the turbulent kinetic energy from the large-scale turbulence structure because of the large-scale energy injection in the inertial subrange.

An experimental study of the dynamics and droplet production in three mechanically generated plunging breaking waves is presented in this two-part paper. In the present paper (Part 1), the dynamics of the three breakers are studied through measurements of the evolution of their free surface profiles during 10 repeated breaking events for each wave. The waves are created from dispersively focused wave packets generated with three wave maker motions that differ primarily by small changes in their overall amplitude. Breaker profiles are measured with a cinematic laser-induced fluorescence technique covering a streamwise region of approximately one breaker wavelength and over a time of 3.4 breaker periods. The aligned profile data is used to create spatio-temporal maps of the ensemble average surface height and the standard deviation of both the local normal distance and the local arc length relative to the instantaneous mean profile. It is found that the mean and standard deviation maps contain strongly correlated localized features and indicate that the transition from laminar to turbulent flow is a highly repeatable process. Regions of high standard deviation include the splash created by the plunging jet impact and subsequent splash impacts at the front of the breaking region as well as the site where the air pocket entrained under the plunging jet at the moment of jet tip impact comes to the surface and pops. In Part 2 (Erinin et al., J. Fluid Mech., vol. 967, 2023, A36), these features are used to interpret various features of the distributions of droplet number, diameter and velocity.

An experimental study of the dynamics and droplet production in three mechanically generated plunging breaking waves is presented in this two-part paper. In the present paper (Part 2), in-line cinematic holography is used to measure the positions, diameters ($d\geq 100\ \mathrm {\mu }{\rm m}$), times and velocities of droplets generated by the three plunging breaking waves studied in Part 1 (Erinin et al., J. Fluid Mech., vol. 967, 2023, A35) as the droplets move up across a horizontal measurement plane located just above the wave crests. It is found that there are four major mechanisms for droplet production: closure of the indentation between the top surface of the plunging jet and the splash that it creates, the bursting of large bubbles that were entrapped under the plunging jet at impact, splashing and bubble bursting in the turbulent zone on the front face of the wave and the bursting of small bubbles that reach the water surface at the crest of the non-breaking wave following the breaker. The droplet diameter distributions for the entire droplet set for each breaker are fitted with power-law functions in separate small- and large-diameter regions. The droplet diameter where these power-law functions cross increases monotonically from 820 to 1480 $\mathrm {\mu }{\rm m}$ from the weak to the strong breaker, respectively. The droplet diameter and velocity characteristics and the number of the droplets generated by the four mechanisms are found to vary significantly and the processes that create these differences are discussed.

The perturbations existing on a breaking wavefront can be a potential explanation for the slamming pressure variability in wave impacts. Here, we investigate the effect of these perturbations by forced vertical slamming of a two-dimensional circular cylinder with constant downward velocity on standing waves. Through experimental modelling and numerical simulation, the slamming force is measured for several standing wave amplitudes and wavelengths. The standing wave phase is tuned such that the impact occurs symmetrically at the instant of maximum crest or trough. Our observations show that slamming coefficients vary with the standing wave amplitude when the wavelength is kept constant and vice versa. The trough impact slamming coefficient can be more than two times the flat impact, and up to four times the crest impact. The experimental results are reproduced by numerical simulations and they agree reasonably well in general. Two analytical approaches based on the von Kármán (NACA, vol. 321, 1929, pp. 1–8) and Wagner (Z. Angew. Math. Mech., vol. 12, 1932, pp. 913–215) methods, which consider the effect of water surface curvature, are introduced. The slamming coefficient calculated from these methods can provide a bound in which the slamming coefficient can be found for each standing wave amplitude and wavelength. Further insight is achieved by numerical simulations of impact on the shorter wavelength to diameter ratio of $0.05<\lambda /D<0.4$. As the wavelength to diameter ratio becomes smaller, the cylinder impacts the water surface at several locations. As a result, multiple peaks occur, and the trapped air at different locations between the cylinder and the water surface yields oscillations with different frequencies on the slamming coefficient time history.

Gravity–capillary waves are waves influenced by both the effects of surface tension and gravity; these waves are at small scales with wavelength range from approximately 10 cm to less than 1 cm. Gravity–capillary waves play a significant role in air–sea interactions, and they exhibit much different features compared with gravity waves. They can be observed widely on the sea surface. Parasitic waves (capillary waves generated by and that ride on gravity and/or gravity–capillary waves) and micro-breaking can be observed on the water surface with winds; however, the presence of wind makes it difficult to analyse the mechanisms of the wave itself. In this paper, parasitic waves and micro-breaking on gravity–capillary waves are examined experimentally, both in the absence of wind. Parasitic waves and axisymmetric micro-breaking waves are generated mechanically in a convergent channel, where energy density increases due to spatial convergence. Three experimental techniques are used to measure wave properties: planar laser-induced fluorescence, particle image velocimetry and shadowgraphs. The wave profile evolution and vortices beneath the parasitic waves are studied. The micro-breaking of gravity–capillary waves is observed on a surface with added surfactant. The surfactant increases the Bond number, and makes breaking possible in these small-scale waves. Energy dissipation of parasitic waves and micro-breaking is quantified, and the enhanced dissipation caused by parasitic waves is identified through the experiments. In this study, mechanically generated breaking waves with wavelengths less than 10 cm are studied for the first time, without the effect of wind. The results yield insight into wave characteristics and energy dissipation on the air–sea interface at small scales.

A dynamical understanding of the physical process of surface gravity wave breaking remains an unresolved problem in fluid dynamics. Conceptually, breaking can be described by inception and onset, where breaking inception is the initiation of unknown irreversible processes within a wave crest that precede the visible manifestation of breaking onset. In the search for an energetic indicator of breaking inception, we use an ensemble of non-breaking and breaking crests evolving within unsteady wave packets simulated in a numerical wave tank to investigate the evolution of each term in the kinetic energy balance equation. We observe that breaking onset is preceded by around one quarter of a wave period by a rapid increase in the rate of convergence of kinetic energy that triggers an irreversible acceleration of the kinetic energy growth rate. This energetic signature, which is present only for crests that subsequently break, arises when the kinetic energy growth rate exceeds a critical threshold. At this point the additional kinetic energy convergence cannot be offset by converting excess kinetic energy to potential energy or by dissipation through friction. Our results suggest that the ratio of the leading terms of the kinetic energy balance equation at the time of this energetic signature is proportional to the strength of the breaking crest. Hence this energetic inception point both predicts the occurrence of breaking onset and indicates the strength of the breaking event.

The oscillatory Kelvin–Helmholtz (K–H) instability of a planar liquid sheet was experimentally investigated in the presence of an axial oscillating gas flow. An experimental system was initiated to study the oscillatory K–H instability. The surface wave growth rates were measured and compared with theoretical results obtained using the authors’ early linear method. Furthermore, in a larger parameter range experimentally studied, it is interesting that there are four different unstable modes: first disordered mode (FDM), second disordered mode (SDM), K–H harmonic unstable mode (KHH) and K–H subharmonic unstable mode (KHS). These unstable modes are determined by the oscillating amplitude, oscillating frequency and liquid inertia force. The frequencies of KHH are equal to the oscillating frequency; the frequency of KHS equals half the oscillating frequency, while the frequencies of FDM and SDM are irregular. By considering the mechanism of instability, the instability regime maps on the relative Weber number versus liquid Weber number (Werel–Wel) and the Weber number ratio versus the oscillating frequency (Werel/Wel–$\varOmega$s2) were plotted. Among these four modes, KHS is the most unexpected: the frequency of this mode is not equal to the oscillating frequency, but the surface wave can also couple with the oscillating gas flow. Linear instability theory was applied to divide the parameter range between the different unstable modes. According to linear instability theory, K–H and parametric unstable regions both exist. However, note that all four modes (KHH, KHS, FDM and SDM) corresponded primarily to the K–H unstable region obtained from the theoretical analysis. Nevertheless, the parametric unstable mode was also observed when the oscillating frequency and amplitude were relatively low, and the liquid inertia force was relatively high. The surface wave amplitude was small but regular, and the evolution of this wave was similar to that of Faraday waves. The wave oscillating frequency was half that of the surface wave.

Undulating and breaking bores are generated in the laboratory using a programmable long-stroke wavemaker. By changing the stroke length and the speed of the wavemaker, both non-decaying and decaying bores are generated and studied. Bore strength, height and duration are measured and compared with the solutions derived by using the method of characteristics, with excellent agreement. The measurements for inundation depth, runup height and flood duration are checked with the formulas presented in Barranco & Liu (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 915, 2021). The comparisons show that the formulas are also accurate for the non-decaying bores generated by the wavemaker. The maximum inundation depth predicted by the formula for zero bore length at the beach toe agrees with the laboratory observations for decaying bores. Using a high-speed particle image velocimetry system, the ensemble-averaged velocities and fluctuating velocities under undulating bores and breaking bores are measured in constant water depth and in the vicinity of the still water shoreline. Detailed analyses of the velocity fields are presented and discussed. For the undulating bore a long quiescent flood duration is observed, while for the breaking bore the up-rush flow changes into down-rush flow almost linearly.

The frameworks of Baikov–Gazizov–Ibragimov (BGI) and Fushchich–Shtelen (FS) approximate symmetries are used to study symmetry properties of partial differential equations with a small parameter. In general, it is shown that unlike the case of ordinary differential equations (ODEs), unstable BGI point symmetries of unperturbed partial differential equations (PDEs) do not necessarily yield local approximate symmetries for the perturbed model. While some relations between the BGI and FS approaches can be established, the two methods yield different approximate symmetry classifications. Detailed classifications are presented for two nonlinear PDE families. The second family includes a one-dimensional wave equation describing the wave motion in a hyperelastic material with a single family of fibers. For this model, approximate symmetries can be used to compute approximate closed-form solutions. Wave breaking times are found numerically and using the approximate solutions, which yield comparable results.

A novel experiment is presented to study the initial disturbances on a free surface due to the constant acceleration of liquid around a submerged obstacle. The surface response to different obstacle sizes, initial surface heights and fluid velocities is measured using high-speed videography. Perturbations observed on the surface are classified into either jetting or gravity waves by measuring the steepness of growing liquid columns. A classification phase map between these two regimes is obtained and compared with analytical results by Martín Pardo and Nedić (2021). The agreement between decision boundaries is good for high Froude numbers (high fluid velocities) but deteriorates at lower velocities, where viscosity and surface tension effects (not considered in the analytical model) have a greater predominance. The surface profile and perturbation amplitude measured in experiments are also compared against this analytical model. In all cases, the model accurately predicts the corresponding experimental results at the beginning of the motion, but the prediction error increases with time. It is also observed that faster moving surfaces that lead to the onset of jetting have greater prediction accuracies and longer validity times of the predictions.